RE: primary coil stand off construction question.

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: "Rich & DJ" <rdj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>

The list of ideas keeps getting longer but as I said before they are all
great. Stan your set up on the router is very close to how I drill my
supports and coil forms. First drill a hole in a piece of form stock and
a base piece on the drill press, move that hole in the base the amount
of your spacing , clamp it to the drill press, put a pin in the first
hole in the base. Now place you form with its first hole over the pin,
drill the second hole on your form, move on to the third and so on. You
can drill 15 holes in 10 forms and have 150 holes within .001 of each
other. All the spacing will be the same with out doing a layout and
trying to drill the holes to a layout. A block clamped to the base or
piece of alum angle stock will make a fence so all holes will be in
line.
A little drill fixture ahead of time will make a better looking project.

        Rich, from the middle of Missouri


Subject: Re: primary coil stand off construction question.

Original poster: Stan <wsmg@xxxxxxxxxx>

Hey Adam,
        Try routing the first groove with your offset in each
standoff, then clamp a solid 3/8" rod to your table at the distance
from your bit that you want your spacing set, then you can just set
your first groove on the rod to rout the second then just keep going
the same for the rest. That should work for ya. Just take your time
and hold on.

Stan

Tesla list wrote:

>Original poster: Yurtle Turtle <yurtle_t@xxxxxxxxx>
>
>I tried using my router table, but didn't have much
>luck. I also tried my radial arm saw, but the yoke had
>more slop than I wanted. My supports were 3/8" thich
>and my tubing was also 3/8". My problem was in moving
>the supports into the bit on my router table. I
>couldn't get the slots to be perpendicular, no matter
>how many times I tried. Were you using a plunge
>router?
>
>Adam
>
>--- Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> > <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> > Hi Rich,
> >
> > Excellent idea! I'll give that a go the next time I
> > build primary supports.
> >
> > Take care,
> > Bart
> >
> > Tesla list wrote:
> >
> > >Original poster: "Rich & DJ" <rdj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > >
> > >A
> > >
> > >  All of Bart's ideas are good but you have another
> > tool that makes it
> > >easy. Use your router, that is how I do mine. Put
> > your router in it's
> > >table and set you fence to trim off one side of the
> > hole, you can trial
> > >and error on a scrap piece until the tube just
> > snaps in the hole. Then
> > >use the real ones and trim them. I will be nice and
> > smooth, not rough
> > >like a saw cut.
> > >
> > >                 Rich , from the middle of Missouri
> > >
> > >
> > >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> > >Subject: Re: primary coil stand off construction
> > question.
> > >
> > >Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> > <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > >
> > >Hi Vinnie,
> > >
> > >Lexan, delrin, or even hard readily available
> > acrylic can be used for
> > >the supports (standoffs not required). I also use a
> > hand drill (a
> > >nice Dewalt. Maybe next Christmas, a drill press?).
> > Some of the
> > >harder materials such as acrylic are more difficult
> > to machine. For
> > >primary's, something between 1/4" to 3/8" thick
> > makes drilling less
> > >fragile. The drill bit itself is the key. You want
> > a bit with a
> > >shallow angle (between 60 and 90 degrees). The
> > standard 120 degree
> > >angle for metal work is designed to bite into the
> > metal. This 120
> > >degree angle will often chip or crack acrylic. With
> > a shallow bit
> > >angle, the work done "scrapes" a nice hole without
> > chipping and
> > >cracking.
> > >
> > >Cutting the acrylic is more of a challenge than
> > drilling. The first
> > >basic cut is easy. But after the holes are drilled,
> > you'll need to
> > >mark a line to cut through the drilled holes
> > slightly above center so
> > >that there is enough material to keep the primary
> > snapped in place.
> > >When you cut that particular line, do it as precise
> > as possible. I've
> > >done it with a hacksaw, but it's not easy to keep
> > precision with a
> > >hand tool like that. Best to use a bandsaw with a
> > guide edge preset
> > >into position. Then try snapping a length of tubing
> > into it. Do you
> > >need more or less cut towards the center?
> > Experiment is the key to
> > >finding what "you" feel is the right feel for the
> > snap action.
> > >
> > >I recommend practicing first on a slab of material
> > before cutting the
> > >intended runners. Like anything else, the art must
> > be practiced to
> > >get comfortable with your own method and see if it
> > what you set up
> > >works as you intended. It doesn't take long to
> > realize the hole depth
> > >you like and to get good at the art. If you've ever
> > worked with wood,
> > >this will be simple for you. If not, it may be a
> > challenge. Much
> > >depends on the persons naturally born skills and
> > the thing inside
> > >that drives him to build Tesla Coils.
> > >
> > >Take care,
> > >Bart
> > >
> > >Tesla list wrote:
> > >
> > > >Original poster: "Vinnie" <teslatech@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >
> > > >Hello
> > > >
> > > >I'm in the process of rebuilding my flat primary
> > and I want make or
> > > >purchase some
> > > >stand off spacers. Does anyone have an tips on
> > constuction and
> > >materials?
> > > >I see alot of use of lexan and polyethylene. I
> > want to stay away
> > > >from the PVC pipe
> > > >unless there is a way to make it look nice
> > without several wire ties
> > > >to afix the copper
> > > >tubing. I'm kinda limited on tools. I don't have
> > access to a drill
> > > >press but I have the
> > > >standard power drill and router. I'm concerned
> > about the speed of
> > > >the tools actually melting
> > > >the plastic as well. Any help would be
> > apprieciated.
> > > >
> > > >Thanks for your time.
> > > >
> > > >Vinnie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
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