Re: primary coil stand off construction question.

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: Yurtle Turtle <yurtle_t@xxxxxxxxx>

Maybe I'm not understanding how you did it. I was
making 8 standoffs nearly 18" long. I've got a pretty
decent router table, though it is a storebought one. I
used my fence to stop the HDPE, after feeding it
perpendicular to how one would normally feed it. I
don't have a miter gauge with mine, and my fence
doesn't go 9" beyond the bit.
Once it started cutting, it kinda took on a life of
it's own, with regards to feed rate. I guess it's
possible that the router and bit were moving slightly
as well, causing the less than perfectly perpendicular
holes. I was convinced the best way to do them was
with my radial arm saw. Just turn the yoke, mount a
chuck, install the bit, set the depth, then gently
pull. However, the bit seemed to dig into the plastic,
then it would try to walk to the side of the leading
edge, much like the router did.

Adam

--- Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Hi Adam,
>
> I recently used a router to channel runners. I
> simply clamped down a
> jig (fence) to set the gap between edge of runner
> and center of
> router bit. I installed the router under a table
> with the bit
> sticking up through a hole in the table. I
> personally like a router
> mounted to a large wooden table rather than a store
> bought router
> table. I made a few setup runs to get the the
> channel depth and fence
> gap correct and then quickly channeled all the
> runners without a
> glitch. Using this same technique, I can see how the
> router (with
> correct bit) would be a decent method for cutting
> acrylic. But, I
> haven't tried it with acrylic yet, so I will take
> your experience into account.
>
> Take care,
> Bart
>
>
>
>
> Tesla list wrote:
>
> >Original poster: Yurtle Turtle <yurtle_t@xxxxxxxxx>
> >
> >I tried using my router table, but didn't have much
> >luck. I also tried my radial arm saw, but the yoke
> had
> >more slop than I wanted. My supports were 3/8"
> thich
> >and my tubing was also 3/8". My problem was in
> moving
> >the supports into the bit on my router table. I
> >couldn't get the slots to be perpendicular, no
> matter
> >how many times I tried. Were you using a plunge
> >router?
> >
> >Adam
> >
> >--- Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >
> > > Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> > > <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > >
> > > Hi Rich,
> > >
> > > Excellent idea! I'll give that a go the next
> time I
> > > build primary supports.
> > >
> > > Take care,
> > > Bart
> > >
> > > Tesla list wrote:
> > >
> > > >Original poster: "Rich & DJ" <rdj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >
> > > >A
> > > >
> > > >  All of Bart's ideas are good but you have
> another
> > > tool that makes it
> > > >easy. Use your router, that is how I do mine.
> Put
> > > your router in it's
> > > >table and set you fence to trim off one side of
> the
> > > hole, you can trial
> > > >and error on a scrap piece until the tube just
> > > snaps in the hole. Then
> > > >use the real ones and trim them. I will be nice
> and
> > > smooth, not rough
> > > >like a saw cut.
> > > >
> > > >                 Rich , from the middle of
> Missouri
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > >Subject: Re: primary coil stand off
> construction
> > > question.
> > > >
> > > >Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> > > <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >
> > > >Hi Vinnie,
> > > >
> > > >Lexan, delrin, or even hard readily available
> > > acrylic can be used for
> > > >the supports (standoffs not required). I also
> use a
> > > hand drill (a
> > > >nice Dewalt. Maybe next Christmas, a drill
> press?).
> > > Some of the
> > > >harder materials such as acrylic are more
> difficult
> > > to machine. For
> > > >primary's, something between 1/4" to 3/8" thick
> > > makes drilling less
> > > >fragile. The drill bit itself is the key. You
> want
> > > a bit with a
> > > >shallow angle (between 60 and 90 degrees). The
> > > standard 120 degree
> > > >angle for metal work is designed to bite into
> the
> > > metal. This 120
> > > >degree angle will often chip or crack acrylic.
> With
> > > a shallow bit
> > > >angle, the work done "scrapes" a nice hole
> without
> > > chipping and
> > > >cracking.
> > > >
> > > >Cutting the acrylic is more of a challenge than
> > > drilling. The first
> > > >basic cut is easy. But after the holes are
> drilled,
> > > you'll need to
> > > >mark a line to cut through the drilled holes
> > > slightly above center so
> > > >that there is enough material to keep the
> primary
> > > snapped in place.
> > > >When you cut that particular line, do it as
> precise
> > > as possible. I've
> > > >done it with a hacksaw, but it's not easy to
> keep
> > > precision with a
> > > >hand tool like that. Best to use a bandsaw with
> a
> > > guide edge preset
> > > >into position. Then try snapping a length of
> tubing
> > > into it. Do you
> > > >need more or less cut towards the center?
> > > Experiment is the key to
> > > >finding what "you" feel is the right feel for
> the
> > > snap action.
> > > >
> > > >I recommend practicing first on a slab of
> material
> > > before cutting the
> > > >intended runners. Like anything else, the art
> must
> > > be practiced to
> > > >get comfortable with your own method and see if
> it
> > > what you set up
> > > >works as you intended. It doesn't take long to
> > > realize the hole depth
> > > >you like and to get good at the art. If you've
> ever
> > > worked with wood,
> > > >this will be simple for you. If not, it may be
> a
> > > challenge. Much
> > > >depends on the persons naturally born skills
> and
> > > the thing inside
> > > >that drives him to build Tesla Coils.
> > > >
> > > >Take care,
> > > >Bart
> > > >
> > > >Tesla list wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >Original poster: "Vinnie"
> <teslatech@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > >
> > > > >Hello
> > > > >
> > > > >I'm in the process of rebuilding my flat
> primary
> > > and I want make or
> > > > >purchase some
> > > > >stand off spacers. Does anyone have an tips
> on
> > > constuction and
> > > >materials?
> > > > >I see alot of use of lexan and polyethylene.
> I
> > > want to stay away
> > > > >from the PVC pipe
> > > > >unless there is a way to make it look nice
> > > without several wire ties
> > > > >to afix the copper
> > > > >tubing. I'm kinda limited on tools. I don't
> have
> > > access to a drill
> > > > >press but I have the
> > > > >standard power drill and router. I'm
> concerned
> > > about the speed of
> > > > >the tools actually melting
> > > > >the plastic as well. Any help would be
> > > apprieciated.
> > > > >
> > > > >Thanks for your time.
> > > > >
> > > > >Vinnie
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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