Re: primary coil stand off construction question.

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: Yurtle Turtle <yurtle_t@xxxxxxxxx>

If you're talking about setting up a jig, I tried
that. I wasn't happy with how it looked, so I bought a
drill press.

Adam

--- Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Original poster: Stan <wsmg@xxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Hey Adam,
>         Try routing the first groove with your
> offset in each
> standoff, then clamp a solid 3/8" rod to your table
> at the distance
> from your bit that you want your spacing set, then
> you can just set
> your first groove on the rod to rout the second then
> just keep going
> the same for the rest. That should work for ya. Just
> take your time
> and hold on.
>
> Stan
>
> Tesla list wrote:
>
> >Original poster: Yurtle Turtle <yurtle_t@xxxxxxxxx>
> >
> >I tried using my router table, but didn't have much
> >luck. I also tried my radial arm saw, but the yoke
> had
> >more slop than I wanted. My supports were 3/8"
> thich
> >and my tubing was also 3/8". My problem was in
> moving
> >the supports into the bit on my router table. I
> >couldn't get the slots to be perpendicular, no
> matter
> >how many times I tried. Were you using a plunge
> >router?
> >
> >Adam
> >
> >--- Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >
> > > Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> > > <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > >
> > > Hi Rich,
> > >
> > > Excellent idea! I'll give that a go the next
> time I
> > > build primary supports.
> > >
> > > Take care,
> > > Bart
> > >
> > > Tesla list wrote:
> > >
> > > >Original poster: "Rich & DJ" <rdj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >
> > > >A
> > > >
> > > >  All of Bart's ideas are good but you have
> another
> > > tool that makes it
> > > >easy. Use your router, that is how I do mine.
> Put
> > > your router in it's
> > > >table and set you fence to trim off one side of
> the
> > > hole, you can trial
> > > >and error on a scrap piece until the tube just
> > > snaps in the hole. Then
> > > >use the real ones and trim them. I will be nice
> and
> > > smooth, not rough
> > > >like a saw cut.
> > > >
> > > >                 Rich , from the middle of
> Missouri
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > >Subject: Re: primary coil stand off
> construction
> > > question.
> > > >
> > > >Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> > > <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >
> > > >Hi Vinnie,
> > > >
> > > >Lexan, delrin, or even hard readily available
> > > acrylic can be used for
> > > >the supports (standoffs not required). I also
> use a
> > > hand drill (a
> > > >nice Dewalt. Maybe next Christmas, a drill
> press?).
> > > Some of the
> > > >harder materials such as acrylic are more
> difficult
> > > to machine. For
> > > >primary's, something between 1/4" to 3/8" thick
> > > makes drilling less
> > > >fragile. The drill bit itself is the key. You
> want
> > > a bit with a
> > > >shallow angle (between 60 and 90 degrees). The
> > > standard 120 degree
> > > >angle for metal work is designed to bite into
> the
> > > metal. This 120
> > > >degree angle will often chip or crack acrylic.
> With
> > > a shallow bit
> > > >angle, the work done "scrapes" a nice hole
> without
> > > chipping and
> > > >cracking.
> > > >
> > > >Cutting the acrylic is more of a challenge than
> > > drilling. The first
> > > >basic cut is easy. But after the holes are
> drilled,
> > > you'll need to
> > > >mark a line to cut through the drilled holes
> > > slightly above center so
> > > >that there is enough material to keep the
> primary
> > > snapped in place.
> > > >When you cut that particular line, do it as
> precise
> > > as possible. I've
> > > >done it with a hacksaw, but it's not easy to
> keep
> > > precision with a
> > > >hand tool like that. Best to use a bandsaw with
> a
> > > guide edge preset
> > > >into position. Then try snapping a length of
> tubing
> > > into it. Do you
> > > >need more or less cut towards the center?
> > > Experiment is the key to
> > > >finding what "you" feel is the right feel for
> the
> > > snap action.
> > > >
> > > >I recommend practicing first on a slab of
> material
> > > before cutting the
> > > >intended runners. Like anything else, the art
> must
> > > be practiced to
> > > >get comfortable with your own method and see if
> it
> > > what you set up
> > > >works as you intended. It doesn't take long to
> > > realize the hole depth
> > > >you like and to get good at the art. If you've
> ever
> > > worked with wood,
> > > >this will be simple for you. If not, it may be
> a
> > > challenge. Much
> > > >depends on the persons naturally born skills
> and
> > > the thing inside
> > > >that drives him to build Tesla Coils.
> > > >
> > > >Take care,
> > > >Bart
> > > >
> > > >Tesla list wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >Original poster: "Vinnie"
> <teslatech@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > >
> > > > >Hello
> > > > >
> > > > >I'm in the process of rebuilding my flat
> primary
> > > and I want make or
> > > > >purchase some
> > > > >stand off spacers. Does anyone have an tips
> on
> > > constuction and
> > > >materials?
> > > > >I see alot of use of lexan and polyethylene.
> I
> > > want to stay away
> > > > >from the PVC pipe
> > > > >unless there is a way to make it look nice
> > > without several wire ties
> > > > >to afix the copper
> > > > >tubing. I'm kinda limited on tools. I don't
> have
> > > access to a drill
> > > > >press but I have the
> > > > >standard power drill and router. I'm
> concerned
> > > about the speed of
> > > > >the tools actually melting
> > > > >the plastic as well. Any help would be
> > > apprieciated.
> > > > >
> > > > >Thanks for your time.
> > > > >
> > > > >Vinnie
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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