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Re: Beehive secondary technique

Original poster: "rheidlebaugh by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <rheidlebaugh-at-zialink-dot-com>

Gary: I use creapage disks with good results. T have my students wind 2" of
coil then 1/8" space for the last 10" 0f secondary. I use a large Hole saw
to cut the inside of my disks and a sabor saw to cut the outside and bond
them in the wire gap of the secondary.
     I beleave your idea of honey-comb or corrugated winding would be ideal
for flat coils and would make winding much easier like old radio coils used
years past. Small LDPE rods could be used to wind on then easly removed
after coating. Laquer and epoxi dosent stick to LDPE, or they could be left
in to strengthen the coil.LDPE welding rods (1/8") are about the right size.
    Robert  H 

> From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 20:39:49 -0600
> To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> Subject: Beehive secondary technique
> Resent-From: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> Resent-Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 21:21:57 -0600
> Original poster: "Lau, Gary by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
> <Gary.Lau-at-compaq-dot-com>
> The problem of racing sparks running along the secondary is not yet fully
> understood, but the ways to stop it are.  They are:
> 1. Reduce the pri-sec coupling.  Trouble is, some efficiency is lost when
> coupling is reduced.
> 2. Install several creepage disks along the length of the secondary, to
> make the surface length of the secondary longer.
> Creepage disks have been employed by only a few people, not including
> myself, and good results have been reported, allowing the use of higher
> coupling.  I suspect the reason this is not more commonly used is:
> 1. The difficulty of cutting the disks
> 2. The difficulty of ensuring an absolutely spark-proof seal where the disk
> meets the secondary
> 3. The secondary becomes MUCH larger and more fragile and difficult to
> store when not in use
> I had an idea which does not suffer from these problems.  Rather than
> having just a few creepage disks, the secondary surface is made to be
> corrugated, just like beehive insulators.  What I propose is, after a
> secondary is wound, apply a space-wound layer of nylon rope along the
> length of the secondary.  Then apply the usual several coats of
> polyurethane to the rope and secondary.  It would probably be necessary to
> have a motorized jig turning the works until the polyurethane dries to
> avoid drips and runs.
> I have not tried this and odds are I probably won't, but I thought I'd
> throw out the idea should anyone else be so inclined.
> Gary Lau