I use a 6” diameter x 1’ long piece of white sch40 PVC.
The spark gap is 4 pieces of 1” copper tubing x 6” long and it has a fan to ensure quenching.
As long as you leave it alone after configuring, it stays pretty stable, but it does get insanely brittle to where you need a hot filament to cut it or it will splinter. (yes I found out the hard way)
> On Jan 29, 2020, at 16:12, Gary Lau <glau1024@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> I have no experience with gaps for anything larger than an NST power supply
> so can't comment on the series quench configuration. But based on my
> experience, I suspect the use of PVC in proximity to the gaps is a less
> than ideal idea. Even using a single NST, the white PVC turns an
> unsightly brown color due to the intense UV emitted by the gap. I don't
> know how its insulating or mechanical strength might be affected, but
> better to use G10 if available.
>
> Regards, Gary Lau
> MA, USA
>
> On Wed, Jan 29, 2020 at 1:03 PM Daniel Kunkel <dankunkel@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> Hello Tesla List!
>> I am starting to work on my next spark gap for a 6-10 KVA magnifier. It
>> seems the definitive spark gap design is that from Richard Hull/TCBOR using
>> a rotary gap (to control timing only) combined with a multiple break series
>> gap (to control quench only). Is there a better approach for gap design and
>> construction?
>>
>> Currently my plan is to use a 3.5 HP DC motor to spin a G10 disk with
>> tungsten electrodes and combine it with the PVC + copper tubes + fan series
>> gap.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> ~Dan
>> Kansas City area
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