RE: [TCML] phillips question about wax and more

[Jeff Behary <electrotherapy@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hey all,
I agree that oil would be best but its such a pain to work with, wax is so much more convenient.
 
You can always add some components to the wax too.  Paraffin oil (mineral oil, linseed oil, etc) will make a softer mix that won't crack as easy.  Another  thing that works is to add a wax "toilet ring" seal to the mix.  The wax still hardens, and will still contract a bit.  The toilet ring is a waxy-vaseline consistency and seems to help the mixture a bit, esp. if being poured into a container.
 
I've even went the tree-hugger route and made vegetable-based waxes for coils and transformers.  Soybean oil and Stearic Acid or Palmitic Acid (both are waxy flakes used in candle making) will form an unusual and cheap wax that (against all odds in bug-infested Florida) have held up nearly 2 years without any problems so far.
 
An unforseen problem here is that a container of oil, of any kind, will be completely filled with dead cockroaches and palmetto bugs if not monitored.  They love the stuff for some strange reason, and have ruined several of my projects (and appetite)...
 
Jeff> From: danniken@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [TCML] phillips question about wax and more> Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 18:36:28 -0700> CC: > > ---- Original Message ----- > From: "bartb" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>> >> > I agree that oils will penetrate the outer windings a little better, but > > this doesn't mean that coilers should not use wax. Wax has it's benefits > > and it's cheap, readily available, and a nice strong hold for the core > > wihtin the case. I see wax as ideal for an NST repotting compound.> > One thing I would like to mention, having repotted my two NSTs in wax (a > 12/60 and a 15/60), is that wax contracts when it cools, and by a > significant amount. The way that I compensated for this was to wait until > the wax had started to set up, maybe a 1/4" solid on the surface, and then I > poked a series of holes with a small dowel through the top. This allowed > for a controlled contraction, air between the top hardened layer and the > still molten layer, instead of pulling away from the windings internally. > Of course, make sure you don't do any damage when you're poking the dowel > down into the guts.> > This required another pour (to fill the holes), and I repeated the procedure > a couple of times until I was satisfied that the shrinkage had been > compensated for.> > Jon > > _______________________________________________> Tesla mailing list> Tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> http://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla
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