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Re: Re[TCML] NST rebuild good
Hi Bart,
Although I realize that the air cooled sucker gap idea is
no new idea, I really like the looks of your personal setup.
I now have a medium size coil on the drawing board - one
that I can plug into a standard 120 volt outlet ( ~2 kVA). I
have already wound 29.5" of #22 magnet wire on a 6.5" OD
PVC form (~ 1050 turns) for my secondary coil and have
recently obtained a 14.4 kV (120:1) GE potential transformer
which I intend to use for the power source (you know how I
despise NSTs). I plan on ballasting the PT with my 12 KVA
rated staurable reactor. I also have a couple of extra .04 ufd,
40kV rated RFI recon mica pulse caps of which I plan on using
one or both of for my primary cap. Anyway, I was trying to de-
cide whether I want to go with an SRSG or a robust air-cooled
stationary gap. I know the SRSG would allow me to run with a
larger primary cap and get a slightly longer output spark at a giv-
en power level but the air cooled stationary would be simpler to
construct and the preset gap spacing would automatically control
the voltage rise. I haven't constructed the primary coil yet but in-
tend on probably using standard 1/4" refrigeration tubing for 10
to 12 turns in the standard Archemidian spiral with ~3/8" turn/turn
spacing. I also haven't tried to crunch the numbers with your Java-
TC yet - haven't gotten that far yet ;^) I was just wanting to ask
what your suggestion would be - should I go SRSG or air-cooled
gap for this coil setup? Of course all others are welcome to share
their comments as well ;^)
Thanks,
David Rieben
----- Original Message -----
From: "bartb" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Re[TCML] NST rebuild good
Hi Marko,
snip.......
I highly recommend copper tube at 1.25" diameter and about 3" long (can
be purchased ready to go at all hardware stores). Pick up a pvc coupling
form about 4" deep. There is a lip in the inside center. I use 2 part
high temp epoxy and place 1 tube edge down on the lip. After the epoxy
is set up, I do the same for the next tube and place a .050 feeler gauge
between the two pipes. I do this for 6 electrodes for 0.25" total gap
ability. Install a hefty fan to suck through the bottom and you have
yourself a nice static gap with a lot of surface area for cooling (and
exact distances between each tube). Works great.
Here's an old photo but shows the basic idea. The coupler I install into
it's larger cousin which is epoxied onto a fan. This allows me to pull
out the coupler as needed for other electrode types or for cleaning. The
copper tube is far superior to the brass stock I also show in the pic.
http://www.classictesla.com/photos/ba45/s2752.jpg
Take care,
Bart
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