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Re: Re[TCML] NST rebuild good

Hi Bart,

Although I realize that the air cooled sucker gap idea is no new idea, I really like the looks of your personal setup. I now have a medium size coil on the drawing board - one that I can plug into a standard 120 volt outlet ( ~2 kVA). I have already wound 29.5" of #22 magnet wire on a 6.5" OD PVC form (~ 1050 turns) for my secondary coil and have recently obtained a 14.4 kV (120:1) GE potential transformer which I intend to use for the power source (you know how I despise NSTs). I plan on ballasting the PT with my 12 KVA rated staurable reactor. I also have a couple of extra .04 ufd, 40kV rated RFI recon mica pulse caps of which I plan on using one or both of for my primary cap. Anyway, I was trying to de- cide whether I want to go with an SRSG or a robust air-cooled stationary gap. I know the SRSG would allow me to run with a
larger primary cap and get a slightly longer output spark at a giv-
en power level but the air cooled stationary would be simpler to construct and the preset gap spacing would automatically control
the voltage rise.  I haven't constructed the primary coil yet but in-
tend on probably using standard 1/4" refrigeration tubing for 10 to 12 turns in the standard Archemidian spiral with ~3/8" turn/turn spacing. I also haven't tried to crunch the numbers with your Java- TC yet - haven't gotten that far yet ;^) I was just wanting to ask what your suggestion would be - should I go SRSG or air-cooled gap for this coil setup? Of course all others are welcome to share their comments as well ;^)

David Rieben

----- Original Message ----- From: "bartb" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Re[TCML] NST rebuild good

Hi Marko,


I highly recommend copper tube at 1.25" diameter and about 3" long (can be purchased ready to go at all hardware stores). Pick up a pvc coupling form about 4" deep. There is a lip in the inside center. I use 2 part high temp epoxy and place 1 tube edge down on the lip. After the epoxy is set up, I do the same for the next tube and place a .050 feeler gauge between the two pipes. I do this for 6 electrodes for 0.25" total gap ability. Install a hefty fan to suck through the bottom and you have yourself a nice static gap with a lot of surface area for cooling (and exact distances between each tube). Works great.

Here's an old photo but shows the basic idea. The coupler I install into it's larger cousin which is epoxied onto a fan. This allows me to pull out the coupler as needed for other electrode types or for cleaning. The copper tube is far superior to the brass stock I also show in the pic.

Take care,

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