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Re: Motor?

Original poster: "Gerald  Reynolds" <gerryreynolds@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi Henery,

John's proportional method for the flat depth vs the "dead pole" method, I dont know which is best. I did a 1/6 HP motor using the "dead pole" method and it works great. It locks on with about 1 degree of jitter. I have heard that if you grind the flats too deep, the currents go way up. You may want to try which ever method uses the shallowest flat first and see how well it locks. You can always go deeper if you need to.

Gerry R.

Original poster: Henry.Hurrass@xxxxxxx
How much do you recommend one should mill off of a typical motor? This
effectively makes this a salient pole motor...sort of. For example, I am
using a 1/2hp, 230V,4-pole,1750 RPM motor which I start at about 280V so
it can "Lock-in" and then I reduce the voltage through time delay to
240V...If I leave the voltage high, the current input exceeds the
nameplate rating and the motor runs excessively hot. What luck has
anyone out there had? Suggestions for milling depth would be helpful,
and appreciated, since I'm getting ready to mill down another armature
or two.

Regards, Henry Woo

-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 4:20 PM
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Motor?

Original poster: FutureT@xxxxxxx

In a message dated 4/11/05 8:54:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tesla@xxxxxxxxxx writes:

>A fellow coiler brought me a new motor with the intention of having me >convert it to synchronous operation by milling flats on the armature. >Before starting, I'd like to be certain this particular motor is >suitable. The specs are 2 hp, split phase, 3450 rpm, non-reversable, >115/230v, twin capacitor. > >Is this Harbor Freight special going to work for a SRSG? > >Thanks for any advice, > > >Tim Flood


Yes, the motor modification will work.  Mill two flats.

John Freau