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VTTC controller - First Light
Original poster: "sundog by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <sundog-at-timeship-dot-net>
Hi All,
Aside from some glitches to iron out of the design and implementation,
it works, and surprisingly well.
After testing the controller extensively, I decided to fire up the
tube coil and see what happened. The worst was I could smoke $24 in FETs,
and some cheaper chips in the controller.
Quite to the contrary, I got a nice purple fuzz on the breakout point.
The setup -
3" PVC secondary, wound with 26ga wire, Fres is ~390khz (best output)
Primary is 2 layer, helical, with 14 turns per layer and centertapped
for push-pull.
Power supply is 2 MOTs in series feeding raw AC to the plate.
The controller is a TL494 based PWM, with a pair of TC4420 FET driver
powering 2 -500v -7A FETS
The grid supply is a 120/480v CT transformer with diodes on the output
to give me -340v (with a filter cap) for each FET. With the dropping
resistor in plate (to limit current to the grid), I get about -300v on the
grids.
I'll post waveforms and whatnot on my site as I get time.
The skinny on this system... The P channel FETs act as part of a
resistive divider, feeding the reference voltage to the grids. When the
FETs turn on, the voltage on the reference (and grid) drops to zero volts,
turning the tube on. The fet turns off, and the voltage comes back to
-300v. At -300v, the tube is *hard* off, and I have to crank the variac to
140v to even begin to get any power out of the tube. At 4kV on the plate,
there is no current flow to the tube.
Switching - The voltage drops from -300v to 0v in about 1.6uS (not a
typo), then climbs back up to -300v in about 150-200nS (sometimes as long
as 300nS for low frequencies). I attribute this to poor "off" gate
switching of the FET, as the drive signal is very sharp. Still, the
opposite tube turns on while the first has around -170 to -200v on the
grid, which has the tube "mostly shut off". Still, it's burning up some
power there, and the matter needs addressed.
Surprisingly, the FETs don't see that much kickback with a standard RL
choke at the plate of the tube. The kickback never surpassed the grid bias
voltage, so the FETs were in no danger. Even running the system *way* out
of tune, there was no damage to the fets or tubes in any way.
An aluminum enclosure to shield against RF for the drive electronics
will be forthcoming, as will better adjustment of the TL494's operating
frequency.
Now, the issues I ran into -
Poor FET turn off. I think a lowish-value resistor to ground from
the gate should help dump the capacitance once the FET driver turns off,
giving me a much sharper return to -300v on the grid, and reduced FET
heating (which isn't even an issue at the moment).
The tubes refused to pull more than 500w, even with 0v on the grid. I
will substitute a pair of 833A's for the RS1026's to compare, as the
RS1026's should be pulling ~4kW on their own. For now, I think the tubes
are fine, and my filament tranny's ground and MOT's ground connections are
suspect.
Power resistor heating - The dropping resistors in the divider get
*hot*. Especially under the CW duty they were under last night. Resistors
are current 3kohm 25w aluminum sinked, mounted to a 4x6" heatsink.
RF kickback into the FET causing spurious triggering - There was a
*nasty* ~8khz screeching from the spark at times, which I narrowed down to
spurious triggering of the FETs. RF hardening should help eliminate that
nicely, as will a better FET output waveform.
Once I get the tube power situation under control, I'll be ready to run
real full-power (multi kW) tests on the coil. It's *incredibly* nice to
be able to run a coil out-of-tune, and not fry anything. Being out-of-tune
will matter worse at higher current levels, as the tubes will have to
dissipate the energy, but they're tough enough to take the overload (within
reason) without cooking, as FETs do.
ToDo
Try 833A tubes in place of the RS1026's.
Get sharper turn-off on the FETs
Add a 555 timer to enable staccato/pulsed mode to the TL494
Re-configure the tank circuit to utilize a tank capacitor and run the
controller as a grid-leak replacement (single-ended)
Finalize the electrical design and get PCB's etched for easy
construction/population.
All in all, I'm not surprised that it works, but I am surprised that it
works as well as it does, with so few problems. I'm in the process of
drawing up schematics for the whole thing (TL494, grid-switching circuit,
etc), which I'll post as I complete them.
Smile everybody, there was a new flavor of TC born in my garage last
night. :)
Shad
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Shad (Sundog)
G-5 #1373
"Ever stop to think, and forget to start again?"
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