Re: Tungsten electrodes in static gap?

Hello Don,

Thanks for the compliments on the spark gaps, I made them in my garage.

The heat sinks are not too difficult to make, but really the lathe should be 
spinning quite fast and parting tool should be quite sharp for best results 
using aluminum.  Original Diathermy gaps used copper washers, but they cost 
a f-o-r-t-u-n-e, believe me, and I've been quoted for 5000 washers at a time 
from the largest manufacturer, and they are STILL expensive!

I think my Fischer machines used in the neighbourhood of 60 washers, which 
can cost up to $1 each unless in VERY serious quantities!

I have a new method for making heat sinks, and will try and publish it to 
the list very soon.  It uses an aluminum strap in a geometric pattern that 
works well not only for cooling spark gaps but great for cooling fly-wheel 
engines too.
It does not require a lathe, but merely a wooden jig.

If tungsten tubing could be had, that would be GREAT for a Richard Quick 
Gap, but then again, you couldn't drill it not cut it!!!!!!!

It would have to be diamond cut and EDM'ed which would cost several 

But tungsten does not corrode anything like copper, but it will discolor to 
a black color with high heat.  But it's  100 times better than anything 

I like Richard Quicks spark gaps for ease of building and operation, but 
like [all] gaps they have a definate life span.

I chose the tungsten bar stock/collet methods of making gaps because 
theoretically they last forever and only need tungsten rod replaced very 
rarely, perhaps in years time of continuous use.

I like discovering new spark gaps.  I've tried [just about] everything!


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