Re: Tank Cap Seal Failure

• To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
• Subject: Re: Tank Cap Seal Failure
• From: "Peter Murphy" <pmurphy-at-terrigal-dot-net.au> (by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>)
• Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 00:14:30 -0600
• Approved: twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net
• Delivered-To: fixup-tesla-at-pupman-dot-com-at-fixme

Hi Matt Hi All
Id use the silicon sealent for automotive use ie. silastic gasket the window
and door stuff aint much good with oil....
Late model toyota cars dont have a sump gasket they just use the automotive
silicon sealant imagine the oil flying around in there at 4000 rpm for
cleaning the surfaces id use Laquer thinners either nitrocellulose or
acryllic liberally soaked on a rag that will remove your oil residue hope
this helps
Pete the TV repairman

-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Date: Saturday, October 30, 1999 12:02 AM
Subject: Tank Cap Seal Failure


>Original Poster: "Matt Behrend" <electronxlc-at-earthlink-dot-net>
>
>This week, I noticed that the lid on my oil-filled tank cap was lifting
>off the container.  I have a 15 gal rubbermaid PP container with
>snap on lid.  During construction, I used GE Silicone II Window and
>Door sealant to secure the lid and I have had no problem until now,
>a couple months after completion.  The guys at the hardware store
>assured me that this stuff was oil-proof, but maybe not.
>
>Now I must reseal the lid.  Is there a better sealant to use?  Any
>tips for making sure it sticks this time?  Even after I clean the
>surfaces, there will still be oil residue, so can the new coat of
>sealant adhere to the surfaces?
>
>Matt Behrend
>
>
>

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