A 833A can actually tolerate a dull red plate but don't let it go to orange or yellow. There are 2 solutions to the red plate problem. Adding a staccato circuit is one solution. Another solution, if you are going to be operating it in non-staccato mode a lot, is to switch to a 833C. This tube has a graphite plate which can take a lot more abuse than a 833A. I switched from a 833A to a 833C and it made a big difference when running in non-staccato continuous mode. When running in staccato mode, there is little difference in performance between a 833A and a 833C.
Steve White
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
----- Original Message -----
From: "shaun" <snoggle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 5:30:28 PM
Subject: Re: [TCML] First Light
Love that sound and good spark.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla [mailto:tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Tristan and Kayden gaming
Sent: November 24, 2020 5:02 PM
To: Tesla Coil Mailing List
Subject: [TCML] First Light
I switched the feedback leads. That didn’t change anything so, I check just
to make sure I grounded the filament lead where the Staccato connects. I
had not. I ran a ground and my plate would glow but, still, no sparks. I
switched the feedback leads back and it came to life. My plate is still
getting hot but, it’s sparking. I have included a link to see the sparks.
Thanks everyone. I may need more help with the tuning to keep my plate
cool..
Chip
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DkM7q3wXAB2963vyIF48qUmCw1zfVxzB/view?usp=drivesdk
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