Just out of curiosity, I assume you are going to beat that dent in the can near the LV bushings back out while you have its guts removed, right?
David
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> On Jan 5, 2019, at 8:43 AM, Tyler LaVite <tlavite@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> David... that’s what I mean the actual windings on the core not the actual core itself. I was just going to stick a piece of nomex paper on the wall of the can next to the part of the winding that had the breakout. The core will still be bolted and grounded to the can. Just trying to separate that one small spot of the winding as much as I can from the side of the can.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 4, 2019, at 9:42 PM, David Speck <Dave@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> Tyler,
>>
>> The core should be at ground potential, and bolted to the case, or at least the lid. you might have to pound out the dent in the can to keep the can away from the windings.
>>
>> It's the windings and leads to the bushings that need to be separated from the case.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>> On 1/4/2019 8:37 PM, Tyler LaVite wrote:
>>> David yes I agree I’m wondering if it’s worth it to line the aide of the can with something? It’s a pretty tight fit but it will definitely me fully submerged in oil. Before the side of the core looked to be damn near touching the can.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Jan 4, 2019, at 7:07 PM, David Speck <Dave@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Tyler,
>>>>
>>>> Good to hear that the fix looks to be relatively simple.
>>>>
>>>> I would think that you will have to re-center the core inside the tank. At the voltages involved, a few layers of varnish are not going to provide adequate insulation. Distance from the can and lots of oil are what you will need to prevent further breakdown.
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>
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