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Hi Terry, I'm thinking that if the toroid size is too big, it won't break out without the barb. Perhaps a few more details of your coil will make for a clearer picture. Power source, gap details, cap size, and most importantly, toroid size? With toroids, bigger is usually better, at least as far as getting the longest possible streamer from a breakout point, but if you're shooting for sparks without a breakout point, a smaller toroid may be necessary. Regards, Gary Lau MA, USA <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> Virus-free. www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Oct 29, 2017 at 12:25 AM, Bert Hickman <bert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Hi Terry, > > Racing sparks typically occur when energy is being injected into the > secondary too quickly. Although this is _usually_ caused by > excessively-high coupling, it can also occur when the bang size is too > large for the size of your secondary, or if your system is significantly > out of tune. To solve the problem(s), you'll need to first insure that your > system is in tune, that P:S coupling is not excessive, and that your toroid > is appropriately sized for your system's peak output voltage. > > 1. Tuning: > I'd suggest initially running the system with a breakout point (or barb) > during this phase. Reduce the primary spark gap length to reduce maximum > bang size. Experiment with primary tap point until you get the maximum > secondary spark length at a given variac setting. The system should be > smooth running with consistent spark length under continued operation. > > 2. Coupling: > If you don't see any racing sparks, slowly increase the "bang size" by > widening the main gap slightly. Don't increase gap length beyond the point > where the safety gaps begins firing or if you start to see racing sparks. > If you see racing sparks, reduce coupling slightly and continue the process > of increasing the main gap length until you can run at full power with no > evidence of racing sparks. You may need to retune the primary a bit by > increasing primary inductance slightly (i.e., moving the primary tap > outwards 1/8 - 1/4 turn) to compensate for capacitive loading of longer > secondary streamers. Any signs of racing sparks mean that you need to > further decrease coupling. > > 3. Final tweaking: > Reduce the length of the breakout point/bump to see if the coil can > self-break from the toroid as you approach full power without introducing > any racing sparks. Further decrease coupling if you see any evidence of > racing sparks. Ideally, an appropriately-sized toroid will self-breakout > before you reach full power. Failure to self-breakout can occur if the > minor toroid diameter is too large (requiring excessively-high breakout > voltage) or if the major toroid diameter (and capacitance) is too large, > which reduces maximum topload voltage below the point of self-breakout. For > this case you may need to operate your system with a breakout bump or point > to insure breakout. Even with an optimal setup, you may still need to use a > breakout point during humid weather when it's significantly more difficult > to initiate breakout. > > Good luck, > > Bert > -- > Bert Hickman > Stoneridge Engineering LLC > http://www.capturedlightning.com > +1 630-964-2699 > *********************************************************************** > World's source for "Captured Lightning" Lichtenberg Figure sculptures, > magnetically "shrunken" coins, and scarce/out of print technical books > *********************************************************************** > > > Terry Oxandale wrote: > >> >> It's been a long time since I was more active on this list. I never was a >> "technical" enthusiast, so being I've had the coil in storage for probably >> 10 years, and have forgotten more than I remember about coiling. I'd like >> to >> tap the group for some help or advice please. >> >> My coil appears to operate as I remember it did, as long as I've got a >> sharp >> pointed barb sticking out the side of the toroid to promote a discharge. >> When I remove the barb to get a normal toroial discharge, I get racing >> sparks along the secondary, and nothing out of the toroid, all for the >> same >> power setting as the "barbed" setup (2kva). Thus I separated the secondary >> from the primary in terms of vertical distance to lower any excessive >> coupling (shooting in the dark here), but still racing arcs along the >> secondary. >> >> Any ideas on the huge difference (or lack of performance) between "barbed" >> and "non-barbed? No component changes have been made since a decade ago >> when >> it all worked great, and both configurations performing equally well. >> >> Terry >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Tesla mailing list >> Tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >> https://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla >> >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Tesla mailing list > Tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > https://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla > _______________________________________________ Tesla mailing list Tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx https://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla