100 nF sounds a little high for 120 ma. That's what I use for 25 kVA.
From: Timothy Gilmore <tdg8934@xxxxxxxxx>
To: mddeming@xxxxxxx; Tesla Coil Mailing List <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, March 2, 2015 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: [TCML] Dual identical FRANCE neon sign transformers (15000v 60mA each) in parallel
I was able to win on eBay a nice 6"x30" secondary (1400 turns 24 gauge) so
I think I'm set here. I also made a toroid from 6" aluminum dryer ducting
with a 24" total diameter. It's not 30" like the secondary winding but
should have good results with a grounding ring above the primary copper
tubing.
All that's left is capacitance as I'll probably need about 100 nF to keep
the primary taping under 12 turns otherwise I'll need to add more copper
tube windings on the primary. And finally some sort of a spark gap with fan
and upgrade to something fancy later on.
Tim
On Mon, Feb 23, 2015 at 10:01 AM, mddeming--- via Tesla <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
>
> Comments interspersed
>
> Matt D
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Timothy Gilmore <tdg8934@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: Tesla Coil Mailing List <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sun, Feb 22, 2015 8:23 pm
> Subject: Re: [TCML] Dual identical FRANCE neon sign transformers (15000v
> 60mA each) in parallel
>
>
> Thanks for the info Dave!
>
> So if I have only 24" long 6" diameter PVC pipe to work with, I keep
> reading that you need 2-3" on both ends of the pipe that I wont have then.
>
> I'm assuming for the bottom end of he secondary pipe I would need to raise
> it up 2-3" with a wooden block or other material BUT I am using 1" high
> HDPE 12" long strips to hold the 50' of 1/4" refrigerator tubing, I would
> assume I wouldn't have to raise the secondary only 1" then to make it even
> with the 1" high HDPE strips. If it is raised only 1" I was thinking of
> using PVC cement to attach it to the 1" high wooden block. I would then
> attach the wooden block to the base with L brackets (non metal if I can
> find them - but don't think it would matter).
>
> PVC cement does not adhere well to wood.
> Depending on the coupling, it may be necessary to have the bottom of the
> secondary windings an inch or two above the level of the primary and
> somewhat adjustable.
>
> At the top of the 24" secondary (assuming almost the entire 24" length is
> wire wound - or 23 to 23.5"), I would make it only about 23.5" and save the
> last 0.5 inch to attach some way a toroid. BTW: is a large sphere any
> better than a large torroid on this 6" diameter (24 " tall pipe) wound 23
> or 23.5" of 26 gauge wire?
>
>
> In my experience, large spheres do not work better better than a toroid.
> They have aesthetic value.
> I would like to use what I have already purchased but if I absolutely have
> to have a longer 6" diameter, I think Menards has 10' lengths I saw online
> but another expense for just being a few inches short with what I have at
> 24" already.
>
> Another idea - since Lowes sells the 24" (6" diameter) pipe. whatabout
> buying another 24" (6" diameter) pipe and using PVC cement them together
> for 48" (6" diameter) and use a hacksaw to saw it down to maybe 30" or so,
> Does that sound reasonable?
>
>
> This sounds reasonable unless you are using very thinwall pipe. If using
> thinwall, you would need to split a short length of pipe to make a gluing
> collar
> that would fit inside and make the joint sturdier.You could also try using
> a 4X6reducer on each end to make attachments to pieces of 4-in pipe. for
> elevating the toroid etc.(Coil would look somewhat like a large
> rolling-pin?)
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim
>
>
>
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