User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/31.2.0
I mounted mine inside of some PVC pipe, which made it easy to hide the
flash. It can be easier, however, to mount the pipes side by side.
You can hold the pipes with a pipe drilling jig (V-block) in your drill
press, or if you don't have a drill press, mount them carefully in a
vise. Scribe a line along the length of the pipe section, and mark
where your holes will be, an equal distance from the top and the bottom.
I mounted mine with 8-32 machine screws, just holding the nuts inside of
pipe with my finger to get the screw started, then with a small wrench
to tighten. This provides an easy method of electrical connection at
the outside of the housing if you attach some ring terminals at the time
of assembly.
You can use a credit card, or feeler gauges, whatever is the right
distance for you. I made a six-gap unit, and ended up connecting it as
two three-gap units in parallel. As with any static gap, the overall
gap width affects the BPS of the unit, and to protect your transformer
and cap you don't want the gap to be too wide
Jon
On 11/07/2014 05:09 PM, John Cooper wrote:
> I've seen those Richard Quick and it would be nice to be able to hide
> the arc, especially when showing to kids who will surely not listen
> when you tell not to look at the Bright light. How do you manage to
> hold the pipes while drilling and screwing? Do you set the gap with a
> credit card?
>
_______________________________________________
Tesla mailing list
Tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
http://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla