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Re: [TCML] Grounding Coil to Water Pipe
I know this is old, but it is an email that accidentally never got
sent. I hope it will be considered useful.
After reading all of the grounding emails (back in September), I
thought I would sum things up and add my two cents
This is a very complicated subject. One thing to keep in mind is
this simple, but potentially confusing fact: There is no such thing as GROUND.
How can I say this you may ask? GND is not GROUND until it is in the
DIRT. I mean that literally. It is not GROUND until you are in the
wet conductive dirt of the planet (this becomes more complicated if
you are in the desert areas of the southwest where there is little
wet dirt). Everything else is just a connection to GROUND. These
connections have distance and resistance (and impedance). These are
also compromised by other GND connections connected to each
other. These connections look like a big tree with the trunk at the
DIRT surface with multiple roots going underground. The trunk and
branches are the various safety grounds of your electrical system and
copper water supply pipes in your house along with the electric
service entry from the utility pole outside your house. These are
all usually brought together at a single point at your electrical
service panel or very close.
The root system is the actual connection system to the DIRT (yes,
brown and wet). These consist of a grounding rod or two required by
most electrical codes. Normally any other metal pipes entering your
house are required to be connected at the electrical service
box. This is normally your main circuit breaker panel. Some details
may vary if you have a separate service disconnect breaker that is
not part of your main distribution panel.
Regarding the Cable, Satellite, Phone, and other utility entrances
into your house, these are supposed to be connected as close to the
central GROUND point as possible. This is also normally required for
a roof mounted antenna This is often done by connecting to the wire
from the service box to the outside grounding rod. That puts this
connection as close to the DIRT as possible.
HOUSE GROUNDING REQUIREMENTS BY NATIONAL ELECTRICAL CODE
One thing to remember is that the NEC requirements for grounding are
only concerned with 60 HZ safety issues. These are only for issues
with shorts and leakage currents from faulty connected
equipment. They are there to protect a user from contacting 120VAC
shock hazards. While most of these codes and requirements would
often make a decent RF ground, there is no guarantee unless you
connect where the ground wire comes out of the ground.
THE AC GROUNDING TREE
In the case of an equipment failure that may put 60 Hz current into
the GND system, it is returned to GROUND without creating any harmful
voltages to anyone touching any other device. Again, this was to
prevent human harm. In this case, the tree effect in insignificant
since all impedances are low. In the case of 60Hz, it is 99.9% DC
resistance only. That changes at RF frequencies.
In the case of any radio frequency induced currents, there may be
significant voltages at any of the tree's branches or connections
that could easily damage electronic equipment. Using an electrical
system GROUND or plumbing system GROUND is only useful if it is close
to the DIRT.
As stated and seems to be the general consensus, the best Tesla
GROUND connection is a separate one to the DIRT as directly as
possible. In many homes that I have seen, the AC comes into the
house at the garage with the GND rod just outside. In that case, run
a simple but separate connection to the GND rod.
GARAGE SYSTEMS ALERT!!!
A bunch of users seem to have garage available for Tesla use. You
may have a great GROUND available since your power distribution panel
may be in the garage. You also have the garage door opener to
protect. These are probably OK from the power line, but would need
some protection from the door switch wire acting as a long antenna
. This would probably be OK if some .1 or 1.0uF capacitors are
connected between the terminals and between each terminal and the
case of the opener. That would bypass any RF currents into the case.
I hope this clears things up for some and produces a better
understanding of grounding details. If anyone would like to add to
this, please let me know off list and I will gladly enhance it and
make it available with any improvements. Can anyone provide any
diagrams that might be a nice addition?
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