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Re: [TCML] Secondary winding jig

If your motor gets hot it's just not worth attempting that method. I varnished each of my coils in the morning so they were dry by mid afternoon, allowing me to keep an eye on the lathe whilst it's running.
You can use a lathe even if it's bed is too short, you just need to remove the tailstock and make a DIY tailstock bolted to the bench, however far enough away you need it. A suitable extended bar bolted to the tool post guides the wire on automatically by way of the saddle feed. Once the saddle has travelled its full extent up to where the headstock normally sits, you just wind the saddle back to the start and extend the bar outwards in the tailstock direction. That way the saddle starts at the chuck end again, but the wire is being fed on further up the bed. I have done a 6 inch and an 8 inch that way. 
Takes a lot of time to set-up but makes a very tidy coil that can be wound fairly quick as 60 rpm is a speed most lathes will handle.

The BBQ spit that Reverend suggested sounds a good idea as well, while other people use a drill and just go for it. Much the same as some people can take a watch apart and get it back together again: It all depends on how nimble fingered you are.

Phil
(fingers like tree trunks)


  From: Joe Mastroianni 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 2:44 PM
  To: Tesla Coil Mailing List 
  Subject: Re: [TCML] Secondary winding jig


  Hi Phil,

  I have a Grizzly 4002 lathe but it's only got a 24" bed.  That said, the saddle feed is adjustable.  I can imagine chucking the PVC pipe to the chuck and running it slowly, but I don't have anything obvious to support it on the other side.  What do you suggest?

  And I don't think I'd like to leave my lathe running all night

  I did leave the motor running all night.  It got hot (the stamp on it says, "thermally protected") but still running in the AM.

  Joe

  On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:05 AM, Phil Tuck wrote:

  > I personally would want it turning about 4 times as slow as that - but I'm old. The speed you can cope with is primarily dictated by the AWG your using. It's very easy to get a crossed turn on smaller sizes. You then tend to over compensate and you will find your leaving too much space in between windings. Hold the finished secondary up to the light and you will then see the gaps if your using clear tube.
  > Using a lathe is a good way on a big coil, as you can set the saddle feed up so that it will wind it on automatically and give a nice packed winding.
  > 
  > You also need the motor capable of being left to run unattended for some 8 to 12 hours while the varnish or epoxy dries afterwards
  > 
  > Phil
  >  From: Joe Mastroianni 
  >  Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 10:38 PM
  >  To: Tesla Coil Mailing List 
  >  Subject: [TCML] Secondary winding jig
  > 
  > 
  >  Here's my attempt at a secondary winding Jig. <http://yfrog.com/n6coilwinderz>  I'm hoping to be able to wind up to an 8" form on this.  The PVC on there now is 4" x 24".
  > 
  >  The motor is an Oriental Induction motor I got at a surplus store, and as such it's not speed adjustable.  Though the torque is quite high - which could be a downside if I wind up breaking wire - I'm hoping that by only loosely afixing the PVC core to the rotating shaft (with masking tape) the tape will give free before the wire breaks.  The gray PVC endcaps have been turned on my lathe and fit pretty snugly, though they will slip.  Hoping that will act as a "clutch".
  > 
  >  Never did this before, so this is a Version 1.0. 
  > 
  >  Cheers,
  > 
  >  Joe_______________________________________________
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  > Phil Tuck
  > 
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Regards
Phil Tuck

www.hvtesla.com
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