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Re: [TCML] construction tips wanted



I use a 3/4 inch plywood disk in the end of my coilforms --- using 1/4-20 NC
plastic fasteners (8 pcs) to secure the disk  --- yes, wood can be drilled
and tapped just like metal.

I then drill and tap a 3/8-16 NC hole in the center of the coilform lower
endplate.  The sec wire lower end feeds into a hole and is attached to a
3/8-16 brass rod x 2-2.5 inches long with a
8-32 fastener (end of the rod).  The rod is threaded into the tight tapped
hole and a nut with lockwasher is attached.  After fastening lower end of
sec wire, then the rod end with nut is covered
with 3 successive layers of G.E. Silicone II (hardware store) clear  (don't
use the black).  This prevent corona off the nut.

Two 1/4" acrylic baffles are installed, 4 inches up in both lower and upper
ends --- baffles siliconed into position --- prevent any interior flashover
especially in coils making sparks longer than
the length of the sec coil.

Upper end of sec wire remains outside the coilform.  Last 3 turns are
spacewound with plastic fish line (later removed) and then makes a 3/4 turn
slow spiral up into the toroid.

If you contact me off-list I can email you some photos to help you
understand this procedure.

Dr. Resonance





On Mon, Sep 15, 2008 at 9:46 AM, Ryckmans, Thomas <
Thomas.Ryckmans@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Thanks Doc.
>
> How is the screw fitted on the secondary? Is it fixed in baffles?
>
> The coil has been varnished with 10 layers of varnish - are sodium salts
> still an issue? Will use gloves anyway.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Thomas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx [mailto:tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of DC Cox
> Sent: 15 September 2008 04:01
> To: Tesla Coil Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [TCML] construction tips wanted
>
> I use a small 1 x 1 inch x 0.5 inch thick piece of solid brass under the
> base.  It is drilled and tapped and the sec coil screws rapidly into
> this
> base with a
> standard 3/8-16 NC thread.  A second hole is drilled and tapped near the
> edge of this brass piece such that a permanent ground wire can be hooked
> up
> to the base (internally) and then the coil is quickly screwed into place
> and
> it receives it's house external ground thru this brass piece.
>
> Makes for very fast setup / teardown of your coil for transport.
>
> Also, best to handle the sec coil with nylon gloves so you don't get
> your
> highly conductive hand sodium salts all over the sec coil.
>
> Dr. Resonance
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 14, 2008 at 2:46 PM, Thomas Ryckmans
> <thomas.ryckmans@xxxxxxxxxx
> > wrote:
>
> > Hello,
> >
> >
> >
> > I have finished my secondary (67 cm - 26 inches form, diameter 10 cm-4
> > inches, and the winding itself 54 cm- 21.5 inches so I have a couple
> of
> > inches of "free" form at each end - I can cut that if needed). I'd
> like to
> > fit it on my primary base, which is a varnished MDF square with 6
> vertical
> > pieces of PE to hold the primary.
> >
> >
> >
> > Ideally it should be easy to dismantle for storage/transport, and I
> need be
> > able to adjust the height of the secondary vs the primary. Also it
> should
> > look nice and tidy.
> >
> >
> >
> > What would you recommend?
> >
> >
> >
> > My initial idea is to fit two disks of PE (chopping board) inside the
> form
> > (top- -bottom) with a hole in the middle of each disk, and fit an axle
> > (such
> > as a PVC tube) through the disks. I am unsure of how I can fit the PVC
> tube
> > on the primary though.
> >
> >
> >
> > Many thanks for your help
> >
> >
> >
> > Thomas
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tesla mailing list
> > Tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla
> >
> _______________________________________________
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