This thread got me thinking... Is there any consensus over
"approximately" how much power is lost (heat I need to remove)
through a rsg? I have a 10" pig/coil I usually run at around 10 kVA
with a "four gap" rotary. If I were to try and design a cooling
system, what would a good rating be for watts to dissipate? I
probably run around 400 - 480 bps with a 100 nF cap. I wanted to
check the Joules per bang, but hot-streamer is down and that's where
I have my specs.
Adam
--- On Tue, 7/29/08, Jeremy Scott <supertux1@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: Jeremy Scott <supertux1@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [TCML] a new
coil being born + PICTURES To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List"
<tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> Date: Tuesday, July 29, 2008, 11:05 AM
It'll be interesting to see how hot it gets.
Yeah I thought that might be an issue too but I'm not too
concerned. The purpose of the ballast is to ramp up to full power
slowly so most of the time the core won't even be in. I built
everything for 50A but realistically I'll probably only run it at
30A. (#10 wire in the ballast.)
Here's some of the 50A 220V cables I'm
going
to use. TIP: Recreational
vehicle (RV) stores are a great supply for 50A
extention cables.
That's a great tip, thanks!
Maxwell Caps. I've had these for awhile. 100KV
@
10nF.
I can easily short out the last capacitor for 70KV
@
15nF:
http://mywebspace.wisc.edu/jeremyscott/web/MaxCaps.JPG
I hope those outside terminals don't come too
close to
all that pretty wood!
They actually go through the wood on the ends of the box and there
are two screws that I crank down to sandwich the bank together.
When I want to take a capacitor out, I loosen the press and stick
some wire in there to short out one of the capacitors then tighten
it again. Is that bad? I've used this capacitor bank before without
problems, and I coat the exposed terminals with polyurethane for an
extra little bit of insulation. (Home Depot has this liquid rubber
stuff I want to try, but it's ugly orange.)
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