Re: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2007 20:40:12 -0400
From: Scott Bogard <teslas-intern@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)

Nick,
     I doubt that it was just tuning, as it did have a sweet spot where it 
would give the most corona and mini streamers (plus, the top load was wider 
that the coil was tall, and 2* bigger around, it was big!)  Anyway, make 
sure you are sufficiently grounded, as I only get pri-sec arcing when my 
ground is hooked up wrong, I get racing sparks when my coupling is bad, 
although I am sure over coupling can cause your problem too.  Good luck this 
weekend.
Scott Bogard.


>From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
>Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 14:16:42 -0600 (MDT)
>
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 02:41:32 -0700
>From: seanick <edgarsbat@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
>
>Thanks!
>for your setup, I doubt it was too large...
>I think that could easily just be tuning.
>if I am not mistaken, I am running out of primary now... need another 
>couple
>turns, because of the difference in tuning with this much larger topload
>than I had before. but tapped on the outermost turn currently, the output 
>is
>already better than I've ever had before. of course I'm a bit overcoupled
>and getting dangerous pri-sec arcing again.. but I'll trim down the primary
>supports a bit and see what I can get it to do this weekend.
>
>take care
>NICK
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 2:59 PM
>Subject: RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
>
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 11:23:42 -0400
>From: Scott Bogard <teslas-intern@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
>
>
>Nick,
>      That is a nice top load, I did a similar thing but I skipped making a
>fiberglass or paper machee shell.  I just used a strait truck tire inner
>tube, covered in foil tape.  That was a mistake.  As the ambient 
>temperature
>changed, so did the size of the topload, I left it out in the sun once and
>now there are gaps between my tape in some places.  If I had to do it 
>again,
>I would coat it like you did.  It really doesn't matter anyway though, 
>after
>I tried it out, I found that it is too large for my power supply, all I get
>is 6-in streamers and corona from the breakout point as compared to the 5
>footers with a smaller top load!  Happy coiling.
>Scott Bogard.
>
> >From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
> >Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 20:12:34 -0600 (MDT)
> >
> >
> >---------- Forwarded message ----------
> >Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 21:38:00 -0400
> >From: Aron Koscho <kc5uto@xxxxxx>
> >To: 'Tesla list' <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
> >
> >Nick,
> >
> >That top looks great! You may want to try using some denatured alcohol
> >or acetone to remove the red print on the al tape...
> >
> >Aron
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
> >Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 6:32 PM
> >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
> >
> >
> >---------- Forwarded message ----------
> >Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 19:23:57 -0700
> >From: NICK H <edgarsbat@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> >Cc: calumet45@xxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: fiberglass topload project results
> >
> >Hi all,
> >based on the thread regarding topload smoothness from July 11, my
> >roommate
> >and I decided to make a new topload for our coil.
> >First, we started with Greg's method, except with a 48" o.d., 15" minor
> >dia.
> >pool toy, and it got really tedious just finishing the first coat of
> >paper
> >mache. Because it was available, and a large can of varnish was not, we
> >opted to use fiberglass instead.
> >
> >It took a few days (mostly waiting time though) to do the fiberglass
> >itself,
> >and there were a few rough spots that had to be sanded out, but all in
> >all
> >it was a lot less effort and time than I expected, and the end result is
> >
> >nearly perfect.
> >
> >The process from paper to fiber to gel-coat to alum tape has been
> >photographed and should be fairly self-explanatory. for those who wish
> >to
> >take a look, the making-of can be seen at:
> >http://picasaweb.google.com/calumet45/Toroid2007
> >
> >The first run actually using it can be found at
> >http://picasaweb.google.com/calumet45/TeslaCoilSep12007
> >
> >what do you think?
> >NICK
> >
> >---------- Forwarded message ----------
> >Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 18:15:51 -0700
> >From: Barton B. Anderson <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: Re: top load smoothness (fwd)
> >
> >Yes, fill in the cracks. Haven't tried bondo, but simple plaster of
> >paris products are low cost and easy to work with. Just add water. The
> >time is about 5 minutes to apply and dry over night. Do a few areas over
> >a few days until it's as big and as roughly smooth as your crafty hands
> >can lay it down. It's really not that hard. Sanding is messy, but very
> >easy.
> >
> >If you think your way through it (don't hurry it), the end result is
> >better than any Al tape over flex duct (even when smoothed with a
> >spoon). The end result can be as good as a spun toroid - no kidding (and
> >I've got both to compare). But in the end, do what your comfortable
> >with. It's not really a big deal regardless of what you use.
> >
> >Bart
> >
> >Tesla list wrote:
> >
> > >---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > >Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 01:52:18 +0000
> > >From: ameen_ghavam@xxxxxxxxxxx
> > >To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > >Subject: Re: top load smoothness (fwd)
> > >
> > >You can also use grout to fill in all the cracks, varnish it, then
> >cover
> > >it with strips of aluminum tape. Time consuming to say the least
> >however.
> > >
> > >-------------- Original message -------------- From: "Tesla list"
> > ><tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007
> >19:50:22
> > >>-0500 From: Drake Schutt To: Tesla list Subject: Re: top load
> >smoothness
> > >>(fwd)
> > >>
> > >>Scott- with my first coil I tried to cover regular (not flex duct)
> >ducting
> > >>in bondo to try and make a smooth toroid and that was an utter waste
> >of
> > >>time. Without covering flex ducting in fiberglass or something, the
> > >>cheapest and least time consuming way to make a smooth surface is to
> >use
> > >>flex ducting covered with aluminum tape and then smooth it down with a
> >
> > >>spoon. I just did a couple like this recently and they are VERY
> >smooth.
> > >>
> > >>Drake
> > >>
> > >>On 7/5/07, Tesla list wrote:
> > >>
> > >>>---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007
> >18:40:30
> > >>>-0700 (PDT) From: G Hunter To: Tesla list Subject: Re: top load
> > >>>smoothness (fwd)
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>>In a message dated 7/5/2007 3:44:33 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> > >>>>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
> > >>>>
> > >>>>Hey guys, Concerning the surface of top loads, does it make any
> > >>>>significant difference in overall performance whether the surface is
> >
> > >>>>very smooth or not (ex. spun aluminum toroid vs. dryer duct toroid).
> >If
> > >>>>one is going for absolute maximum spark length (for his budget)
> >would it
> > >>>>be worth his while to cover his corrugated toroids with something
> >like
> > >>>>wood putty or paper mache and cover it with aluminum tape, or just
> >leave
> > >>>>it alone. Thanks. Scott Bogard.
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>Another alternative is paper mache. Obtain a vinyl swim ring pool
> >toy. 5"
> > >>>x 20" is a popular size for small children. 9" x 38" is a common
> >adult
> > >>>size. Inflate the swim toy as hard as possible using lung power and
> >cover
> > >>>it with several layers of paper mache. It looks all wrinkly when
> >first
> > >>>covered, but if the traditional recipe of newspaper, white glue, and
> > >>>water is used, something cool happens. As the paper dries, it shinks,
> >
> > >>>forming a smooth, tight skin. Allow it to dry completely, then
> >toughen
> > >>>the shell with many coats of polyurethane varnish. The paper mache
> >soaks
> > >>>up lots of varnish--be prepared to use a whole can. After the varnish
> >is
> > >>>fully dry, wrap the form in aluminum duct tape and rub it down good
> >with
> > >>>the back of a large spoon. With patient rubbing, the aluminum tape
> > >>>covering will take on a burnished, chrome-like appearance. This kind
> >of
> > >>>toroid looks much smoother than anything made from corrugated ducting
> >and
> > >>>it is much cheaper than spun Al. Takes lots of time though--very
> >tedious.
> > >>>
> > >>>Cheers,
> > >>>
> > >>>Greg
> >
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