Re: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2007 02:41:32 -0700
From: seanick <edgarsbat@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)

Thanks!
for your setup, I doubt it was too large...
I think that could easily just be tuning.
if I am not mistaken, I am running out of primary now... need another couple 
turns, because of the difference in tuning with this much larger topload 
than I had before. but tapped on the outermost turn currently, the output is 
already better than I've ever had before. of course I'm a bit overcoupled 
and getting dangerous pri-sec arcing again.. but I'll trim down the primary 
supports a bit and see what I can get it to do this weekend.

take care
NICK


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 2:59 PM
Subject: RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)


---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 11:23:42 -0400
From: Scott Bogard <teslas-intern@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)


Nick,
     That is a nice top load, I did a similar thing but I skipped making a
fiberglass or paper machee shell.  I just used a strait truck tire inner
tube, covered in foil tape.  That was a mistake.  As the ambient temperature
changed, so did the size of the topload, I left it out in the sun once and
now there are gaps between my tape in some places.  If I had to do it again,
I would coat it like you did.  It really doesn't matter anyway though, after
I tried it out, I found that it is too large for my power supply, all I get
is 6-in streamers and corona from the breakout point as compared to the 5
footers with a smaller top load!  Happy coiling.
Scott Bogard.

>From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
>Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 20:12:34 -0600 (MDT)
>
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 21:38:00 -0400
>From: Aron Koscho <kc5uto@xxxxxx>
>To: 'Tesla list' <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
>
>Nick,
>
>That top looks great! You may want to try using some denatured alcohol
>or acetone to remove the red print on the al tape...
>
>Aron
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 6:32 PM
>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: fiberglass topload project results (fwd)
>
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2007 19:23:57 -0700
>From: NICK H <edgarsbat@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
>Cc: calumet45@xxxxxxxxx
>Subject: fiberglass topload project results
>
>Hi all,
>based on the thread regarding topload smoothness from July 11, my
>roommate
>and I decided to make a new topload for our coil.
>First, we started with Greg's method, except with a 48" o.d., 15" minor
>dia.
>pool toy, and it got really tedious just finishing the first coat of
>paper
>mache. Because it was available, and a large can of varnish was not, we
>opted to use fiberglass instead.
>
>It took a few days (mostly waiting time though) to do the fiberglass
>itself,
>and there were a few rough spots that had to be sanded out, but all in
>all
>it was a lot less effort and time than I expected, and the end result is
>
>nearly perfect.
>
>The process from paper to fiber to gel-coat to alum tape has been
>photographed and should be fairly self-explanatory. for those who wish
>to
>take a look, the making-of can be seen at:
>http://picasaweb.google.com/calumet45/Toroid2007
>
>The first run actually using it can be found at
>http://picasaweb.google.com/calumet45/TeslaCoilSep12007
>
>what do you think?
>NICK
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 18:15:51 -0700
>From: Barton B. Anderson <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: top load smoothness (fwd)
>
>Yes, fill in the cracks. Haven't tried bondo, but simple plaster of
>paris products are low cost and easy to work with. Just add water. The
>time is about 5 minutes to apply and dry over night. Do a few areas over
>a few days until it's as big and as roughly smooth as your crafty hands
>can lay it down. It's really not that hard. Sanding is messy, but very
>easy.
>
>If you think your way through it (don't hurry it), the end result is
>better than any Al tape over flex duct (even when smoothed with a
>spoon). The end result can be as good as a spun toroid - no kidding (and
>I've got both to compare). But in the end, do what your comfortable
>with. It's not really a big deal regardless of what you use.
>
>Bart
>
>Tesla list wrote:
>
> >---------- Forwarded message ----------
> >Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 01:52:18 +0000
> >From: ameen_ghavam@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: Re: top load smoothness (fwd)
> >
> >You can also use grout to fill in all the cracks, varnish it, then
>cover
> >it with strips of aluminum tape. Time consuming to say the least
>however.
> >
> >-------------- Original message -------------- From: "Tesla list"
> ><tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> >
> >
> >>---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2007
>19:50:22
> >>-0500 From: Drake Schutt To: Tesla list Subject: Re: top load
>smoothness
> >>(fwd)
> >>
> >>Scott- with my first coil I tried to cover regular (not flex duct)
>ducting
> >>in bondo to try and make a smooth toroid and that was an utter waste
>of
> >>time. Without covering flex ducting in fiberglass or something, the
> >>cheapest and least time consuming way to make a smooth surface is to
>use
> >>flex ducting covered with aluminum tape and then smooth it down with a
>
> >>spoon. I just did a couple like this recently and they are VERY
>smooth.
> >>
> >>Drake
> >>
> >>On 7/5/07, Tesla list wrote:
> >>
> >>>---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007
>18:40:30
> >>>-0700 (PDT) From: G Hunter To: Tesla list Subject: Re: top load
> >>>smoothness (fwd)
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>In a message dated 7/5/2007 3:44:33 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> >>>>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
> >>>>
> >>>>Hey guys, Concerning the surface of top loads, does it make any
> >>>>significant difference in overall performance whether the surface is
>
> >>>>very smooth or not (ex. spun aluminum toroid vs. dryer duct toroid).
>If
> >>>>one is going for absolute maximum spark length (for his budget)
>would it
> >>>>be worth his while to cover his corrugated toroids with something
>like
> >>>>wood putty or paper mache and cover it with aluminum tape, or just
>leave
> >>>>it alone. Thanks. Scott Bogard.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>Another alternative is paper mache. Obtain a vinyl swim ring pool
>toy. 5"
> >>>x 20" is a popular size for small children. 9" x 38" is a common
>adult
> >>>size. Inflate the swim toy as hard as possible using lung power and
>cover
> >>>it with several layers of paper mache. It looks all wrinkly when
>first
> >>>covered, but if the traditional recipe of newspaper, white glue, and
> >>>water is used, something cool happens. As the paper dries, it shinks,
>
> >>>forming a smooth, tight skin. Allow it to dry completely, then
>toughen
> >>>the shell with many coats of polyurethane varnish. The paper mache
>soaks
> >>>up lots of varnish--be prepared to use a whole can. After the varnish
>is
> >>>fully dry, wrap the form in aluminum duct tape and rub it down good
>with
> >>>the back of a large spoon. With patient rubbing, the aluminum tape
> >>>covering will take on a burnished, chrome-like appearance. This kind
>of
> >>>toroid looks much smoother than anything made from corrugated ducting
>and
> >>>it is much cheaper than spun Al. Takes lots of time though--very
>tedious.
> >>>
> >>>Cheers,
> >>>
> >>>Greg
>
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>
>
>
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