Original poster: Yurtle Turtle <yurtle_t@xxxxxxxxx>
I tried using my router table, but didn't have much
luck. I also tried my radial arm saw, but the yoke had
more slop than I wanted. My supports were 3/8" thich
and my tubing was also 3/8". My problem was in moving
the supports into the bit on my router table. I
couldn't get the slots to be perpendicular, no matter
how many times I tried. Were you using a plunge
router?
Adam
--- Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Hi Rich,
>
> Excellent idea! I'll give that a go the next time I
> build primary supports.
>
> Take care,
> Bart
>
> Tesla list wrote:
>
> >Original poster: "Rich & DJ" <rdj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> >A
> >
> > All of Bart's ideas are good but you have another
> tool that makes it
> >easy. Use your router, that is how I do mine. Put
> your router in it's
> >table and set you fence to trim off one side of the
> hole, you can trial
> >and error on a scrap piece until the tube just
> snaps in the hole. Then
> >use the real ones and trim them. I will be nice and
> smooth, not rough
> >like a saw cut.
> >
> > Rich , from the middle of Missouri
> >
> >
> >To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: Re: primary coil stand off construction
> question.
> >
> >Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson"
> <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> >Hi Vinnie,
> >
> >Lexan, delrin, or even hard readily available
> acrylic can be used for
> >the supports (standoffs not required). I also use a
> hand drill (a
> >nice Dewalt. Maybe next Christmas, a drill press?).
> Some of the
> >harder materials such as acrylic are more difficult
> to machine. For
> >primary's, something between 1/4" to 3/8" thick
> makes drilling less
> >fragile. The drill bit itself is the key. You want
> a bit with a
> >shallow angle (between 60 and 90 degrees). The
> standard 120 degree
> >angle for metal work is designed to bite into the
> metal. This 120
> >degree angle will often chip or crack acrylic. With
> a shallow bit
> >angle, the work done "scrapes" a nice hole without
> chipping and
> >cracking.
> >
> >Cutting the acrylic is more of a challenge than
> drilling. The first
> >basic cut is easy. But after the holes are drilled,
> you'll need to
> >mark a line to cut through the drilled holes
> slightly above center so
> >that there is enough material to keep the primary
> snapped in place.
> >When you cut that particular line, do it as precise
> as possible. I've
> >done it with a hacksaw, but it's not easy to keep
> precision with a
> >hand tool like that. Best to use a bandsaw with a
> guide edge preset
> >into position. Then try snapping a length of tubing
> into it. Do you
> >need more or less cut towards the center?
> Experiment is the key to
> >finding what "you" feel is the right feel for the
> snap action.
> >
> >I recommend practicing first on a slab of material
> before cutting the
> >intended runners. Like anything else, the art must
> be practiced to
> >get comfortable with your own method and see if it
> what you set up
> >works as you intended. It doesn't take long to
> realize the hole depth
> >you like and to get good at the art. If you've ever
> worked with wood,
> >this will be simple for you. If not, it may be a
> challenge. Much
> >depends on the persons naturally born skills and
> the thing inside
> >that drives him to build Tesla Coils.
> >
> >Take care,
> >Bart
> >
> >Tesla list wrote:
> >
> > >Original poster: "Vinnie" <teslatech@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > >
> > >Hello
> > >
> > >I'm in the process of rebuilding my flat primary
> and I want make or
> > >purchase some
> > >stand off spacers. Does anyone have an tips on
> constuction and
> >materials?
> > >I see alot of use of lexan and polyethylene. I
> want to stay away
> > >from the PVC pipe
> > >unless there is a way to make it look nice
> without several wire ties
> > >to afix the copper
> > >tubing. I'm kinda limited on tools. I don't have
> access to a drill
> > >press but I have the
> > >standard power drill and router. I'm concerned
> about the speed of
> > >the tools actually melting
> > >the plastic as well. Any help would be
> apprieciated.
> > >
> > >Thanks for your time.
> > >
> > >Vinnie
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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