Re: MOT current

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: tesla <tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Greetings Bob et al

>Subject: Re: MOT current


>Original poster: "Bob (R.A.) Jones" <a1accounting@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
 >Hi Ted,
>Original poster: tesla <tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Hi Team, Ted L in NZ here
>" The question in my view is actually deceptively tricky."

>>Yes but do you want to draw 5A? That's 5kW dissipated in the MOT and 5kW
in the load.assuming 200ohm and 2kV for the source.

Well actually No. What I have attempted to do is define the PSU source
characteristics to understand what is going on.  I imagine serious problems
with saturation and heating would set in before the 5kVA level was reached.
I would not anticipate that the Tesla with DC supply would represent
anything like a matched load anyway.  The basic problem started with
significantly reduced ability to drive current into the DC Tesla compared
with running machine as an AC design.
> Why bother to tune out the L? Just knock the shunts out.Better yet for AC
put extra shunts in where the heater winding was > so the ballasting is a
better match to the kVA rating of the MOT. You can then use a LTR cap
without drawing say 5kVA.
> Robert (R. A.) Jones

There are a number of reasons why I'm interested in tuning out the source L.
Mostly I'd need to rebuild the MOT PSU and the outer MOT's are securely
mounted in 6" plumbing tubes with end caps installed. Connecting a few MOT
caps in series with the PSU is quite easy and also gives me the option of
achieving secondary side capacitive ballasting if I avoid the capacitance
value which resonates with the MOT source inductance. Its a big and messy
job to remake and new 6" plumbing bits are expensive too. I can exercise
good control over the current by selecting the BPS with a DC design. In a
ground up build I would probably remove the shunts.

Best
Ted L in NZ
>From what I have observed