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RE: Cap Formulas (fwd)



Original poster: List moderator <mod1@xxxxxxxxxx>



---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 01:19:12 -0500
From: Victor Yoo <vlysvc@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: 'Tesla list' <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cap Formulas (fwd)

The size of coil that I am building requires a 0.2uf @ 50kv or better. 

What would be the cost if you used MMC's to build that? How many nights
would you be building it. What would be the box dim's for the assy.? 

I figure that the material cost to build a 0.1uf @ 50kv will be in the
$300.00 range depending on the final quality of dielectric and aluminum.
After building the fixture (no problem I have a mill and many other assorted
goodies in my shop) it will be almost automated with a touch screen
interface to a TriLogi T100MD series PLC http://www.tri-plc.com/products.htm

It will allow me to preset the parameters and then practically walk away
until the bell rings! 

Victor


-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 12:33 AM
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Cap Formulas (fwd)

Original poster: List moderator <mod1@xxxxxxxxxx>

Oh yeah.  It'll handle a 14.4kv 10kva pig at about 1000 breaks/second.
IIRC, it's 0.020 or 0.025uF

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 22:49:17 -0500
From: Victor Yoo <vlysvc@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: 'Tesla list' <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cap Formulas (fwd)

What is the Spec's of you MMC? Will it work with a 14.4kv 10-15kva pig?

Victor


-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 10:37 PM
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Cap Formulas (fwd)

Original poster: List moderator <mod1@xxxxxxxxxx>

I think you may be misunderstanding what people are saying -- given the
quality and ease of manufacture, combined with the somewhat comparable
expense, rolled caps are not so appealing as they used to be.  They are
still excellent, but mmc caps are "more excellent".  

I've made rolled caps and they are indeed quite effective.  However, they
are full of oil and fairly big.  My mmc cap bank is very robust and won't
leak because there's no oil in it.

I'm sure you will do a great job and your caps will be nice as well as
effective.  

It reminds me of CRTs vs. flat panels -- they both work quite well, but if
you have used a nice flat panel display, your only thought is how to get
rid of the CRTs you have.

Chip

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 22:28:00 -0500
From: Victor Yoo <vlysvc@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: 'Tesla list' <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cap Formulas (fwd)

I feel confident that I will be able to make a very high quality cap. that
will withstand the abuse. Has every body had this much bad luck making there
own? I think with proper care and patience your 18.5 will be bunk! I know
that only time will tell, but I am a perfectionist and will not give up
until they work.

Please send me the spread sheet to vlysvc@xxxxxxxxxx

Victor 


-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:20 PM
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cap Formulas (fwd)

Original poster: List moderator <mod1@xxxxxxxxxx>



---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 18:31:04 -0600
From: BunnyKiller <bunnikillr@xxxxxxx>
To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cap Formulas (fwd)

Hey Victor,

 I have an Xcel spreadsheet that calculates all the info required ( I 
put it together when I was making homemade caps)   if you can use a copy 
of it contact me direct
 at    bunnikillrAT Coxdot Net   I will send you a copy....  but before 
you go too far see step 18.5 at bottom of this post...

Scot D



snipperzz...

>
>Here is the process that I was intending on doing to make my caps,
>
>1 Use the BEST dielectric available
>      (Compromise of best properties to cost)
>2 Use aluminum flashing 20 x xx x .025 or better (max .030)
>3 Use Sch 80 PVC tubing and end caps
>4 Use a Robinair 4cfm vacuum pump
>5 Sandblast the edges of the flashing while it is still in a tight
>roll to round off and smooth all the edges
>6 use acetone to bath and clean the flashing
>7 use the compatible solvent to bath and clean the dielectric
>      (Purchased in rolls)
>8 use great to best impregnating oil
>9 Design and build a machine that will wind two plates and two layers
>of                  dielectric simultaneously with proper back tension
>to provide a very tight roll. (14-20" wide flashing and 18-24"
>dielectric)
>10 the termination will be provided on both ends of each plate
>(totaling four 1.5" strips) by cutting the sheet and folding the strip
>in the proper direction to create connections that exits on one end.
>11 make a vessel as such that it will withstand a min vacuum of 25hg
>12 Use 3/8 brass hardware for termination and epoxy or better for
>sealing the terminations
>13 Add a vacuum and oil fill port to the vessel
>14 after the roll is made, terminated and sealed in the vessel
>I will pump it down to 25hg and then draw in the oil.
>15 after the first pump down and fill I will do it again two more times
>or until there is about 2" of room left in the top covering the roll at
>least by 2"
>16 use nitrogen or the compatible inert gas on the fourth and final
>pump down, fill the remaining space in the vessel with gas.
>17 provide an externally mounted reservoir of gas for expansion and
>contraction caused by changes of temp.
>18 break her in at 1/4 power then 1/2 power then at 3/4 power and the
>real glory of full power! (14.4kv @ 10-15kva pig)using a dummy primary and
>SRSG @ 480bbp.
>19 Provide a few to a select few at material cost to test and abuse.
>20 once proven provide them to Tesla Junkies like us at a reasonable
>price and to spec.!
>
>What do you think, will it due?
>
>Victor
>
>
>snipperzzz..
>

and step 18.5...   watch it go poof...  



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