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RE: Cylinder Static Spark Gap

Original poster: "Rich & DJ" <rdj@xxxxxxxxxxxx>


OK here is how I did it. I am a retired tool and die maker / machinist
so I know the right way but I did not have the machines at home so I put
the copper tubes in the drain with small sheets of plastic between them.
You can try a cut up credit card or any thing close. Jam a piece of foam
in the center to force the tubes out against the PVC. Take a magic
marker a put a dot on the end of the PCV where the copper touches. Now
use a small square and transfer a line to the outside surface of the
tube. Drill the top and bottom holes. Clean things up, bolt the tubes in
place, use the spacers to hole the copper in place with the foam pushing
out board. Mix so quick setting epoxy and dab the glue between the tubes
and PVC, this will form a socket to hold the epoxy, remove spacers when
dry and you're done.

	Rich, from the middle of Missouri

-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 12:05 PM
To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Cylinder Static Spark Gap

Original poster: "Glen McGowan" <glen.mcgowan@xxxxxxxxx>

Trying to build a Cylinder Spark Gap out of a 6" piece of PVC (it's
actually a coupler not an actual piece of pipe). Currently using 1" x
4" (ish) OD Copper pipe. Between 6 and 8 electrodes. There must be an
easy way to layout and drill the holes. I've tried to use exact
measurements but I didn't get the results I was looking for (which
means I can't figure out the measurements). I've resorted to trial
and error which I'm not particularly impressed with. This stink'n
thing is making me cross eyed.  I'm almost to the point of unplugging
the dremel and beating it against the garage floor. Figured I'd drop
the list a line and see if some of the veterans could show me some