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RE: Silver tape question
- To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
- Subject: RE: Silver tape question
- From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 17:16:01 -0600
- Delivered-to: testla@pupman.com
- Delivered-to: tesla@pupman.com
- Old-return-path: <teslalist@twfpowerelectronics.com>
- Resent-date: Thu, 19 May 2005 17:22:44 -0600 (MDT)
- Resent-from: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
- Resent-message-id: <T4ON4.A.h5.3-RjCB@poodle>
- Resent-sender: tesla-request@xxxxxxxxxx
Original poster: "Lau, Gary" <gary.lau@xxxxxx>
It was probably me who posted about using newspaper and dilute white
glue. It worked quite well, but compared with a spun toroid, still
resulted in a less than smooth surface. See
http://users.rcn.com/laushaus/tesla/minicoil_files/minicoilModelB.jpg.
The nice thing about the paper/glue is that after it dries, one can file
down ridges with a wood file. It ultimately took several apply/dry
iterations before I was satisfied.
When applying Al tape, the width of the strips must be appropriate for
the minor diameter of the toroid. You can't wrap a 2" wide strip around
a 4" toroid without having it wrinkle and look like heck.
You must cut it down to twice as many 1" strips :-( and burnish each
strip with fingernails or a wooden tool to get it perfectly flat.
A smooth toroid will permit a single, longer streamer to result, rather
than several smaller ones originating from the numerous ridges and
imperfections on a non-smooth toroid.
I doubt the thinner plastic tape would be useful for covering a top
load. Think how hot a streamer is, and think what that would do to the
plastic. It's also not clear that you could achieve electrical contact
to or between strips.
Regards, Gary Lau
MA, USA
> Original poster: "Paul B. Brodie" <pbbrodie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Robert,
> Excuse me, what are "the now defunct economical toroids" you refer
to??
> Also, I noticed at Lowe's the other day that they have two different
types
> of aluminum "duct tape." One is the traditional type I'm familiar with
that
> is fairly thick aluminum, much thicker than aluminum foil, and the
other is
> something new to me, which is much, much thinner and similar to
reflective
> Mylar. I'm wondering if this thin tape is enough of a conductor to be
of
> use. It looks like it will be a lot easier to apply without wrinkles.
>
> I read where someone used old newspaper and diluted white glue as
paper
> mache to smooth out their dryer duct toroid before applying tape. Has
> anyone had any experience trying this or something similar? Is there
any
> real advantage, other than looks, to creating a really smooth toroid?
I
> realize that bumps and such create jumping off points for streamers. I
mean
> other than this one obvious difference. Is the difference in
performance
> worth all the trouble involved? Other than the ugly joint, I actually
like
> the appearance of a regular dryer duct toroid.
> Paul
> Think Positive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tesla list" <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 2:31 AM
> Subject: Silver tape question
>
> > Original poster: "Robert Hanford"
> <<mailto:pomnept@xxxxxxxxxxx>pomnept@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> > I am in the process of coating one of my dryer duct toroids with a
> > fiberglass automotive product. I will be covering it with metallic
tape and
> > would like to know if anyone on the list has tips on the tidiest
ways to
> > apply the tape (avoiding wrinkles, etc.) This question stems from a
post
> > where a comment was made about how well the tape was applied on the
now
> > defunct "economical toroids."
> >
> >
> >
>