Re: PVC Pipe

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: "Dr. Resonance" <resonance@xxxxxxxxxx>



We brush it on in thin coats while the coil is rotating.  30 min and you can
shut the rotation off and let it dry overnight.

Dr. Resonance


> All,
> Thanks for all the information and suggestions on pipe for a secondary
> coil. Forgive me, I'm a perfectionist. I have decided to go with the white
> schedule 40 PVC and to dry and seal it inside and out. If the price I get
> from the Dolph Company is reasonable, I plan to use their ER-44
> polyurethane coating. Here is Dolph's description:
> Low cost, fast drying red polyurethane insulator. Excellent coverage and
> protection. Oil and moisture resistant and excellent adhesion.
> It also says that the dielectric strength is 2000 V per mil and AC-43 is
> listed as 1800 V per mil.
> It is listed under their insulator category and it comes in spray
> cans,which I think will be easier to apply.
> When Dolph gets back to me, I'll post the cost and any comments I get from
> their rep as to suitability of the product for what I have planned.
> Paul Brodie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tesla list" <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 2:06 PM
> Subject: Re: PVC Pipe
>
>  > Original poster: "Dr. Resonance"
> <<mailto:resonance@xxxxxxxxxx>resonance@xxxxxxxxxx>
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > Dolph's AC-43 is the best to use and it won't permeate.  It's a special
>  > insulation formulated just for xmfr coil sealing.  Available in quarts.
See
>  > Dolph Co. on the internet and look at the companies history.
>  >
>  > We use this on all of our magnet wire coils.
>  >
>  > Dr. Resonance
>  >
>  >
>  > > Original poster: "Bob (R.A.) Jones"
> <<mailto:a1accounting@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>a1accounting@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>  > >
>  > > Even if you dry the secondary tube the usually coatings are permeable
to
>  > > water vapor so over a period of time the tube material will reach
>  > > equilibrium with atmospheric water vapor.
>  > > The winding because of its copper content probably represents a more
>  > serious
>  > > barrier if its coated.
>  > > Thick air tight baffles on the top and bottom of the tube probably
also
>  > > represent serous barriers.
>  > >
>  > > I agree the primary reseaon for coating the windings are for
mechanical
>  > > protection and to provide a smooth easily cleaned surface.
>  > > It may help a little with racing sparks and to an even lesser extent
>  > corona
>  > > formation.
>  > >
>  > > It also makes the coil look nice.
>  > >
>  > > Robert  Jones
>  > >
>  > > ----- Original Message -----
>  > > From: "Tesla list" <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>  > > To: <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
>  > > Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 11:45 PM
>  > > Subject: Re: PVC Pipe
>  > >
>  > >
>  > >  > Original poster: Karl Lindheimer
> <<mailto:karl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>karl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>  > >  >
>  > >  > Gary,
>  > >  >
>  > >  > I would have to concur with your statement that sealing the
secondary
>  > >  > windings with poly or lacquer is a very good idea.  The finish
>  > provides:
>  > >  > 1.  physical protection of the secondary windings.  2.
>  > >  > Mechanical aid to prevent windings from slipping or uncoiling.  3.
>  > >  > Insulation against racing sparks and arcing to primary.  4.  A
nice
>  > finish
>  > >  > to look at.
>  > >  >
>  > >  > Dan;
>  > >  >
>  > >  > I also nearly agree with your statement that drying and sealing
the
>  > >  > secondary former is usually not necessary.  Right now, in the
>  > Northeast,
>  > >  > the humidity levels are under 20 %.  You won't get much better
even in
>  > a
>  > >  > drying oven.  The only time I would recommend oven drying and then
>  > sealing
>  > >  > would be if the PVC tubing were exposed to very humid conditions
>  > outdoors
>  > >  > for a while.  Even then, it probably would not matter with the
average
>  > > coil.
>  > >  >
>  > >  > Regards,
>  > >  >
>  > >  > Karl
>  > >  >
>  > >  > On Mar 11, 2005, at 5:55 PM, Tesla list wrote:
>  > >  >
>  > >  > >Original poster: "Lau, Gary"
<<mailto:gary.lau@xxxxxx>gary.lau@xxxxxx>
>  > >  > >
>  > >  > >I would have to agree.  But I do still like to apply several
coats of
>  > >  > >polyurethane over the wound secondary to keep things from moving
>  > about,
>  > >  > >and general aesthetics.
>  > >  > >
>  > >  > >Regards, Gary Lau
>  > >  > >MA, USA
>  > >  > >
>  > >  > > > Original poster: "Daniel McCauley"
>  > >
>   >
><<mailto:dhmccauley@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>dhmccauley@easternvoltag
> eresearch.com>
>  > >  > > >
>  > >  > > > I don't think you have to worry about drying and sealing your
PVC
>  > >  > >pipe.  To
>  > >  > > > be honest, i think its a waste of time.
>  > >  > > > I've built plenty of coils in the past years without doing
this and
>  > >  > >i've
>  > >  > > > never had a problem.
>  > >  > > > I wouldn't waste your time on that.
>  > >  > > >
>  > >  > > > Dan
>  > >  > > >
>  > >  > > >
>  > >  > > >  > All,
>  > >  > > >  > Thanks a lot for all the info on PVC pipe. They weren't
kidding
>  > >  > >when they
>  > >  > > >  > said everyone on here is nice and helpful! From what you've
told
>  > me
>  > >  > >and
>  > >  > > >  > from what I've seen other people using on their very
successful
>  > >  > >TC's, I
>  > >  > > >  > think I will just go ahead and dry and seal white schedule
40
>  > PVC
>  > >  > >inside
>  > >  > > >  > and out and use it. It certainly is cheap and easy to find.
>  > >  > > >  > Paul Brodie
>  > >  > >
>  > >  >
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>  > >
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>  > >
>  >
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