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RE: Pig setup help.



Original poster: "Randy & Lori" <rburney6-at-comcast-dot-net> 

Steve,

If you put 240 into your pig, you will have 14.4K "Difference of
Potential" between your two HV terminals (assuming this is your pig's
rating).  If one of the HV terminals is grounded, that "Difference of
Potential" is still there, but now one Terminal is at 14.4KV when
referenced against ground and the other is obviously 0V against ground.
As I understand the connections (I'm re-wiring now), one HV terminal,
the can (pig skin??), the inside of the primary and the bottom of the
secondary all go together and to your RF ground (use heavy wire!).  It
is kind of like your house wiring(the 120 outlets).  You have a "Hot"
that measures 120VAC against ground, and the "Neutral" measures 0VAC
against ground, and everything works fine on it.  The advantage here is
that you only need one high voltage line from your pig, and the center
of the primary/bottom of the secondary are at the same potential.  I
would even imagine that a primary strike is a little less hazardous
since it is now grounded.

Randy

-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla-at-pupman-dot-com]
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 8:13 PM
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
Subject: Pig setup help.

Original poster: "steve" <steve_vance-at-cablelynx-dot-com>

I have a question for the list. I have a 10 kva pig I'm running
at 5 kva to power my coil my 6.5 inch coil. I was reading the archives
and came across a post about running one of the hv bushings and
the can to earth ground. Can't find enough information to convince me
that I fully understand how to do this safely. Someone correct me if I'm
wrong
on this.... I run one of the hv leads to the can, ground the can to
earth, run
the other hv lead to one side of the tank circuit, and the other side of

the tank
goes to the rf ground? Or does it need it's own ground rod?

Thanks for any help.

Steve Vance