Silver,nickle plating info and molds

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Original poster: "Allan Scott" <ascott16-at-cogeco.ca> 


PLASTIC FORMULAS

Look around you. Almost everything you see is made of plastic. Now with 
these 16 formulas you can

make your own items, such as lamps, plaques, vases, toys, desk sets, 
novelty items and more. It's an

endless list. The only requirement needed is a small space to work in, a 
heater or stove. You need a

kettle or pan to heat the mixture in and a table or bench to work on. Your 
dining table can be used.

SULPHO-PLASTICS

This plastic is particularly adaptable for making molds and light castings 
requiring low tensile strength

but very clear outline. It may also be used for making novelties and 
ornaments. However, as this is

inflammable, do not use for ashtrays.

The name would convey the thought of plastic sulphur which is an unstable 
allotropic for of sulphur,

this is not the case. The sulphur acts as a bond to hold the filler 
together and form a stable material.

Marble effects may be obtained by varying the filler used, and by 
substituting a small quantity of chalk

to replace some of the graphite. A very pleasing glazed marble effect is 
formed.

As long as graphite is retained as a filler, this plastic may be 
electroplated and forms a very economical

base for such work.

FORMULA: Mix thoroughly and smooth together 25 parts graphite and 75 parts 
sulphur and place

over low heat. As soon as the mass has melted and runs like water, remove 
from heat. In any case, a

temperature of 235 degrees F. should not be exceeded. It heated about 250 
degrees F. the plastic will

form a rubbery mass and will have to be cooled and reheated. In this liquid 
state the plastic is ready for

casting, and may be poured into smooth surfaced molds.

N.B. to heat this mixture properly, a good even heat is necessary. Should 
the heating be done by flame,

the container should be placed in a sand bath to insure an even heat. The 
cast iron top of a stove or

heater is excellent.

EQUIPMENT: The only equipment for the above that is required, is space 
enough to work. a heater or

stove, a kettle or pan to heat the mixture in, and a table or bench.

PROCEDURE: Before making in castings you will need a pattern. After 
choosing a design that fits

your need, your next step is to make a mold. Then you start into 
production. If your product requires

any holes, threads or machining, this may be done in the same manner as in 
working with a metal

casting.

Always think of your castings as metal, for they have metallic properties, 
i.e., conduct heat, electricity

and can be electroplated. In fact, the most valuable quality of 
Sulpho-Plastic is the fact that it can be

used as a metal substitute. This permits you to make products that look and 
are as good and even

better, in some cases, than a true metal. For instance, to make a chrome 
plated metal lamp base, other

metal casting would require foundry equipment and machine shop work. A 
process miles out of reach

of the small manufacturer. However, with your plastic lamp base, similar in 
all respects, may be made

for a fraction of the other cost.

ELECTROPLATING: While this can be done at home with very little equipment, 
it is advisable to

have it done by a commercial form. They do it very cheaply and much more 
efficiently. Electroplating

is only used on expensive replicas and is not advisable for a start.

DESIGN: The number and variety of articles that can be made from 
Sulpho-Plastic is practically

unlimited and to make a complete list would be impossible. Though any 
article of reasonable size and

simplicity of design such as lams, vases, plaques, brooches, desk-sets, 
toys, paper weights, etc., may be

cast by using an original article for a pattern or model. Or an original 
design may be patterned in clay

and used to make a mold. It is advisable for the beginner to choose a 
simple article to start with,

preferably solid, such as book-ends or paper weights.

MOLDS: Molds may be made of metal or plaster of paris. Metal models require 
a great deal of skill

and equipment to produce. therefore for the beginner, it is advisable to 
use plaster of paris.

To make a plaster of paris mold. First obtain a box, wood or cardboard, 
about an inch larger than the

article to be cast. Coat the inside of the box very thoroughly, yet thinly 
with stearine or sweet oil. Use

this also on the article to be cast. This acts as a lubricant and the 
plaster of paris will not cement itself

to either the box or the article, if the oil is evenly distributed. Next 
make a thick, creamy mixture of

plaster of paris by sifting the plaster gradually into the water, stirring 
constantly to prevent lumping. Let

this stand for a few minutes to allow the air bubbles to escape. Pour 
mixture slowly over pattern in the

box to about double the thickness of the pattern. Allow several hours to 
dry, then remove. when the

mold is thoroughly dry, give it a thin coat of shellac and repeat in 12 
hours. Now the mold is ready to

use.

MOLDING: First always make sure that you have lubricated your mold with 
stearine or beeswax.

Place molds on a reasonably level surface and pour the Sulpho-Plastic into 
the mold, quickly and

smoothly. Do not pour from a height as this will break the lubricant and 
leave blemishes on the

castings. Plastic must be poured quickly to prevent cooling in folds and 
thus making a poor casting.

One of the big assets of Sulpho-Plastic is the fact that is dries and 
hardens almost immediately. There

is no long wait for the casting to dry.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES: Graphite and Sulphur can be obtained from most any 
hardware or paint

store. Also plaster of paris. Stearine, beeswax, sweet oil can be purchased 
from most drug or grocery

stores.

FORMULA:

Foam density lbs./cu.ft.

11/2 8 24 48

Polylite 8601

50. 50. 50. 50.

Catalyst RI

1.3 0.65 0.65 0.65

Water

3.7 0.4 0.1 0.0

Polylite 8621

100. 50. 48.5 47

(polylite 8601 is a polyseter) (polylite 8621 is a polyiscyanate)

PROCEDURE: In order to prepare a foam of give density, thoroughly mix 
Polylite 8601 with the

necessary amount of catalyst RI and water. This mixture is stable when foam 
is required. Add the

necessary amount of Polylite 8621. Mix thoroughly for 25 to 30 seconds and 
then pour. Do this right

after mixing foams per instructions above. The foam will fully expand 
within 3 to 5 minutes and set

within 5 to 7 minutes into a rigid unicullar structure.

Available mixing time can be extended by moderately chilling the catalyzed 
resin and the

Polysicyanate. It will attain nearly maximum physical properties upon 
standing a few hours at room

temperature and ultimate strength in about one week. Surface brittleness 
may be evident with some

formulations after initial set. This brittleness disappears upon further 
curing, leaving a tough non-friable

foam. curing can be accelerated with moderate heat up to 100 degrees F. 
after the foam has set if

desired.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES: Polylite 8601, Polylite 8621 and Catalyst RI can all 
be obtained from:

Reichold Chemicals Inc. 525 N. Broadway, White Plains, NY 10602

CRAFT PLAX CLEAR FLEXIBLE PLASTIC

Vinyl Chloride Type

Suitable for molding in a letter press

FORMULA:

Pliovic AO.......25 ounces

Dioctyl Phthalate.......12 ounces

Panaflex BN 2.....4 ounces

Aluminum Stearate....1 ounce

PROCEDURE: The aluminum stearate is mixed with hot Dioctyl Phthalate. After 
cooling to room

temperature, add the panaflex BN 2, and finally, the Pliovic AO. Small 
scale mixing can be done with a

paddle, but commercial size batches will require the use of a planetary 
dough type mixer such as used

by bakers.

PACKING: One pint paint cans and a paper label.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE: Mold with your hands or press into molds with a letter 
press. Heat to 350

degrees F. and hold this temperature until the plastic has cured. This will 
require from a few minutes to

an hour or more, depending on the thickness of the object. Curing time can 
be determined by trial.

Molds can be made of 50-50 solder.

COMMENT: Plastic of this kind is known as plastigel, since it is in the 
form of easily manipulated,

putty-like gel in its uncured state. No other form of plastic is better 
suited to the operation of the

homeworker because no expensive dyes or high pressure pressing equipment is 
needed to produce first

class flexible objects.

SOURCE OF SUPPLIERS:

Pliovic AO..Goodyear Tire and Rubber Co. Akron, OH. Dioctyl Phthalate.. 
Monsanto Chemical

Corp...1700 S. 2nd St., St. Louis MO.

Panaflex BN-2..Amoco Chemical Corp..555 Fifty Ave., New York, NY.

Aluminum Stearate..Witco Chemical Co., 277 Park Ave., New York, NY.

Paint Cans..Fruend Can Co., 4439 S. Cottage Grove Ave., Chicago, IL.

Labels..Frazer Label Co., 734 S. Federal St., Chicago, IL. Mixers.. A. 
Daigger & Co., 189 W. Kinzie

St., Chicago, IL.

IMITATION PAPER MACHE

FORMULA 1:

Wet paper pulp.....10 ounces

Casein.....5 ounces

Lime.....2 ounces

Whitting.....20 ounces

Use as little water as possible in mixing this formula. Make up small 
batches until you see if the

composition is exactly what you desire. Hot compositions, of course cannot 
be used in glue molds.

FORMULA 2:

Paper pulp.....10 ounces

Whitting.....8 ounces

Rice flour.....5 ounces

Cook to a heavy paste, or 5 ounces of rice may be cooked to a past and 
mixed with the dry materials.

A hard paper mache.

FORMULA 3:

Use paper pulp or whitting...5 pounds

Liquid Glue.....1 pound

Clear Varnish.....4 ounces

Linseed Oil.....4 ounces

MIXING: Pour the glue into a tin or pail with a tight fitting lid so that 
it can be kept tightly closed when

not in use. Then add the whitting or paper pulp, stirring in a little at a 
time to a smooth paste. Then add

the varnish and linseed oil, mixed well. Keep the mixture covered well when 
not in use as it dries

rapidly. This mixture will adhere firmly to wood, glass, tin, chinaware, 
etc. paper mache surfaces are

greatly improved after drying if they are coated with shellac, 2 coats.

SYNTHETIC RESIN PLASTIC

FORMULA: Phenol and a solution of Formaldehyde, in equal portions are put 
in a steam jacketed

kettle and heat is gradually applied. Soon the materials will begin to 
react, and in doing so - liberate heat

so intense the reaction may become that the steam must, at times be shut 
off and cold water circulated

in the jacket to keep the process from going too far, or the materials from 
boiling out of the kettle.

After a few hours of heating the contents of the kettle will be found to 
have separated into layers. The

heavy melted resin n the bottom and the water on top. When the water is 
removed, the melted resin is

allowed to run from the kettle into small pans to cool. This is a process 
that requires some

experimenting with to get just right. But it is an interesting experience, 
and lays the foundation for later

work on a commercial basis. Different treatment will produce many different 
qualities of the product.

So it is good to keep a record of every operation. Put them all down in a 
record book, when a

satisfactory product is obtained, it can later be duplicated.

SOURCE OF SUPPLIES:

Phenol and Formaldehyde can be purchased from most any wholesale drug 
supply Co.

FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PLASTIC

FORMULA:

Laminac 4134........24.45%

Laminac 4110........75.00%

Cobalt Nepthenate (Liquid)...0.24%

Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide...0.3%

ALSO NEEDED:

Talc

Fiberglass mat

Color paste for Laminac resin

Cellophane

No. 1894 EX-L-WAX

Woven Fiberglass cloth

PROCESS:

This method of forming reinforced plastic objects is known as "open mold 
fabrication." It is best suited

to the home craftsman because it is the simplest method available and 
requires the lowest investment.

Extreme wide variation in the techniques are possible and they type os 
structures that can be made are

almost limitless. For molding a boat hull, a female mold is used. This mold 
is made to conform exactly

to the exterior dimensions and finish desired in the completed molded boat 
hull. The mold may be made

of wood, plaster, metal, or plastic. The best practical and inexpensive 
molds are made of the same

plastic from which the boat itself will be made. The interior of the mold 
is first coated with the parting

agent - No. 1894 EX-L-WAX. Apply the least amount that will provide easy 
removal of the hull from

the mold. Mix the laminac 4134 and 4110 in the proportions stated in the 
above formula. Add the cobalt

naphthenate accelerator and mix thoroughly before adding the methyl ethyl 
ketone peroxide catalyst.

The catalyst will react violently with the pure accelerator so make certain 
these materials are mixed

separately. Add talc to the mixture to thicken it so that application to a 
vertical surface will not produce

sags... Apply a coat of the thickened resin to the inside surface of the 
mold. This is to insure a smooth

and durable surface. Lay up a single layer of fiberglass mat over the 
entire surface of the mold. Using

a paint roller or brush impregnate the layer of fiberglass with resin. 
Regardless of how the resin is

applied, the paint roller must also be used to assure against entrapped air 
bubbles.

Lay up another layer of mat and impregnate with resin same as the first. 
Repeat this process until

desired thickness is attained. Finish with a layer of fiberglass cloth and 
work vigorously with the roller

to remove excess resin. Finally apply cellophane over the entire surface to 
produce a smooth finish.

Allow to harden at room temperature. Remove from the mold and place in an 
even heated oven to 170

degrees F. and not over 200 degrees F. Bake until full hardness is achieved.

Any other structure, large or small is molded in the same way. Whether you 
use a male or female mold

depends on which surface of the finished piece should have the finished 
side. The surface in contact

with the mold is always the most highly finished.

Colors may be added to suit by using color paste made for the purpose. 
These are incorporated into the

resin at the time the talc is added.

More complete instructions on this process may be found in "Fabrication 
with Laminac Resins. Write

to: American Cyanamid Co., 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10020.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:

Laminac 4134 and Laminac 4110 from..American Cyanamid Co. Plastics Div., 30 
Rockefeller Plaza,

New York, NY 10020 Cobalt Nepthenate (liquid) from..Carlisle Chemical 
Works, Inc. Reading, OH.

Methyl Ethyl Ketone from..Enjay Co., 15 W. 51st, New York, NY 10020

Talc from... Johns-Manville Co., Celite Div., 22 E. 40th St., New York, NY 
10016

No. 1894 EX-L-WAX from...Mitchell Rand Mfg. Co. 51 Murray St., New York, NY 
10007

Fiberglass Mat from....Bigelow Fiberglass Products, 140 Madison Ave., New 
York, NY 10016

Woven Fiberglass Cloth from....Hess Goldsmith & Co., 1450 Broadway, New 
York, NY

Color Pastes from...Plastic Molders Supply Co., 74 South Ave., Fanwood, NJ

Cellophane from...Olin Products Co., 270 Park Ave., New York, NY

FISHING LURES, FROGS & WORMS

FORMULA:

Geen 121..........30 ounces

Geen 202..........20 ounces

Good-Rite GP-261...25 ounces

Tin Stabilizer....1 ounce

Hydrogenated Terphenyl...25 ounces

PROCEDURE:

A small quantity like this may be mixed with an electric hand mixer, or by 
hand. This mixture is fluid

and may be poured into suitable molds. Heating the molds to 350 degrees F. 
in an oven. It will fuse and

harden the plastic. There will be little shrinkage and the cast objects 
have a life-like feeling. Molds may

be made of any material that will stand the curing temperature.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:

Geen 121 & 202 from..B.F. Goodrich Chemical Co., 3135 Euclid Ave., 
Cleveland, OH

Good-Rite GP-261 from...B.F. Goodrich Chemical Co., 3135 Euclid Ave., 
Cleveland, OH

Hydrogenated Terphenyl from...Harshaw Chemical Co., 1945 E. 97th St., 
Cleveland, OH

Tin Stabilizer from...Metal Thermit Corp., Rahway, NJ

CELLO SPONGE RUBBER

FORMULA:

Geen 121..........100 ounces

Paraplex G-25........50 ounces

Paraplex G-50........50 ounces

Dythos (stabilizer)....3 ounces

BL-353 (blowing agent)..10 ounces

Sponge Density 7 lbs. per cu. ft. Expansion 1100%.

PROCEDURE:

Heat the pastisol in the mold or on the desired substrate at 212 degrees F. 
until expansion is completed.

When the GL-353 is used. The pigmented plastisol will show a yellow-green 
(the color of BL-353) to

white when all the blowing agent is decomposed.

SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:

Geen 121 from..B.F. Goodrich, 3135 Euclid Ave., Cleveland, HO

Paraplex G-25 & G-50 from...Relm & Haas Co., Washington Square, 
Philadelphia, PA

Dythos from...National Lead Co., 111 Broadway, New York, NY

BL-353 from...E.I. Dupont Co., Wilmington, DE

SIMPLIFIED PLASTICS

The amount of ingredients used in these various formulas is considered to 
be correct. But you may

have to do some experimenting on your own, to obtain the proper flow 
properties.

FORMULA 1:

Wood Flour...5 parts

Sodium Silicate....15 parts

PROCEDURE:

Mix the wood flour and Sodium Silicate together. Add more water if 
necessary until a dough like

mixture is formed by kneading with the hands. This material may be molded 
into hard objects by

pressure. Colors may be added while kneading. Use aniline dyes or dry 
colors. This material is suited

for plaques, statues, book ends and etc.

FORMULA 2:

Dissolve 20 parts of flake glue in water n a double boiler. Add the 
dissolved glue to 90 parts of gelatin.

Add 50 parts of wood flour and 300 parts of powdered chalk. Mix A and B 
together to make a heavy

batter. This is done in enough warm water to loosen the material. Add dry 
colors (can be obtained

from any paint dealer) and mold under pressure.

FORMULA 3:

Add 100 pars of Zinc Oxide to 4 parts of Silicic Acid. Add 2 parts of 
Powdered Borax to 2 1/2 parts of

Powdered Glass. Then mix both together well. Grind until fine, then bring 
it into a solution by adding a

concentrated Zinc Oxide solution. This material is ideal for small objects, 
but most be worked fast

because of its rapid drying. Color if desired in the usual manner. It may 
be pressed with a hand press

or in a drill press.

FORMULA 4:

Dissolve 1 pound of flaked glue in water by boiling. Shred enough tissue 
paper into the solution to give

body and then stir until a thick batter results. Add 1 cup of Linseed Oil 
into the solution and 1 cup of

powdered chalk. Stir well then remove from the double boiler, when cool 
enough to knead with hands.

Press into molds. A pair of old gloves, slightly oiled with pure oil should 
be used to protect the hands

while kneading these materials. It takes a few days for this material to 
dry. But at the end of the drying

time it should be as hard as stone. And it resembles carved wood.

FORMULA 5:

Add 11 parts of Epsom Salts to 36 parts of freshly Calcined Magnesite and 2 
1/1 parts of Lead

Acetate. Mix thoroughly. Then add enough water to hold the material 
together. Mold under pressure.

This formula is good for outdoor decorations. Such as ducks, birds, etc. 
They may be painted after they

have dried.

FORMULA 6:

Add 12 parts Pitch to 6 parts Rosin, mix together then add 1/2 part Caster 
Oil and 1/4 part melted wax.

Blend this mixture together at a temperature of 250 to 260 degrees F. Press 
while hot into a cold die.

Many articles may be made from this material.

WOOD PLASTIC

Easy to make. Take any desired amount of wood flour or finely sifted 
sawdust. Add enough ordinary

clear lacquer to make a thick putty like mass. This will keep for a long 
time if kept in a tightly closed

container. It makes a fine durable material for mending and patching wood.

Purchase a can of plastic wood from your local hardware store. You can see 
how it is packaged.

Note: "Plastic Wood" is a registered name. If you wish to package and sell 
this product, you cannot use

that name legally. You can make up a name of your own.

Wood Flour may be purchased from....Wood Flour Inc., Howard Street, 
Winchester, NH or

Composition Materials Co., Ridgeway Cir, Summer St., Stanford, CT 06905.

You may obtain it from local woodworking plants.

SOURCE OF SUPPLIES:

Metal can may be purchased from...Fruend Can Co., 4439 S. Cottage Grove 
Ave., Chicago, IL

Paper labels from...Fraser Label Co., 734 S. Federal St., Chicago, IL

RESIN CASTING PLASTIC

This is called Phenolic-Formaldehyde-Resin: All the materials for this 
formula can be purchased from

any wholesale drug house.

EXTREME CAUTION: should be taken when mixing this formula. You should only 
use a glass or

stainless steel vessel, and perform the operation in a place where the 
fumes will dissipate. Either in

open air or into a chimney. These products should never come into contact 
with the skin. They are

highly irritating and corrosive.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

Pure Phenol (carbolic acid) crystals, Formalin (30% Formaldehyde), Caustic 
Soda (sodium hydroxide)

or lye, Lactic Acid, Clycerine, and Hydrochloric Acid.

Quantities are given by weight, so that you may make any desired amount of 
resin.

FORMULA:

In a vessel mix 1 part phenol with 2 1/2 parts of formalin. Add caustic 
soda a 20% solution in water, in

the amount of three parts to 100 parts of the phenol and formaldehyde 
solution. This mixture is then

heated for about 6 hours at 150 to 160 degrees F. Remove the water formed 
by the reaction. When the

resin has become a thick syrup, add 6 parts of lactic acid and 15 parts of 
glycerine. Continue to heat

until a small sample congeals on cooling. Add Hydrochloric Acid, 1 part to 
100 parts of the mixture by

weight, and when sufficiently cool, pour into dies of lead or plaster.

Hardening tie depends on so many factors it is hard to predict. It will dry 
quicker if heated in an oven

at 120 to 140 degrees F. The product will be water-white, and may be 
colored with dyes or pigments if

desired.



HOW YOU CAN SILVER-PLATE OR NICKEL-PLATE WITHOUT ELECTRICITY

SILVERPLATING

To 1 quart of water add the following ingredients:

1 oz. Precipitate Silver

1/2 oz. Cynate of Potash

1/4 oz. Hyposulphite of Soda

Add a little whiting and shake before using.

Apply with a soft rag.

|NICKEL-PLATING

Dissolve in water equal parts of double Nickel salt and Sal Ammonia. Heat 
to near boiling point.

Immerse the metal to be nickeled together with some aluminum foil touching 
it. Rinse in clear water.