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Machining steel balls for spark gaps: a better way
Original poster: "Scott Hanson by way of Terry Fritz <teslalist-at-qwest-dot-net>" <huil888-at-surfside-dot-net>
Dan -
There's a much better way of mounting your steel balls for spark gaps. See
photo at (http://surfboard.surfside-dot-net/huil888/ball-gaps.jpg) of a dual
three-ball safety gap assembly I use in conjunction with Terry Fritz' R-C
filter array described at hot-streamer-dot-com.
Regardless of whether they are bearing balls or unhardened balls, clamping,
drilling and tapping will be an absolute nightmare. Even in a well equipped
machine shop, this would be an unpleasant job. Additionally, if you use
threaded rod to support the balls you will find that the sharp threads
"leak" corona like crazy when HV is applied.
Much easier is to very slightly flare the end of a piece of copper tubing
2-3 inches long and braze the ball into the seat formed by the flare. If
you can get some, use thin layer of high-silver content brazing paste
(powdered alloy & flux) smeared on the flared part of the tubing.
Otherwise, use wire silver solder and paste flux. Hold the tubing upright
in a vise, set the ball in the flared end of the tubing, and heat the ball
with a propane torch. At red heat the brazing paste will flow into a
perfect joint around the ball. Allow everything to cool, then solder a
brass machine nut in the opposite end of the tubing as a means of
connecting a solder lug.
Mount each ball assembly in a standoff insulator made from a piece of 1/2
inch square Delrin, nylon, etc. Drill (or drill & ream) a through-hole in
the standoff that will just accept the copper tubing in a sliding fit.
Drill and tap another small hole in the top of the standoff for a lock
screw to allow adjusting and locking the gap spacing. Make three ball
assemblies and three standoffs, and you have a very serviceable triple
safety gap for NST protection, etc. 1/2" diameter copper tubing works
great for 3/4" or 1" diameter balls, costs almost nothing, and a plumber's
flaring tool costs less than $20 and will last a lifetime of tube flaring.
I have used this safety-gap/R-C filter array for several years on a 15
kV/120 ma NST powered 6" X 32" coil. A set of triple ball gaps is used at
both the "input" and "output" sides of the R-C filter. The filter is
located right at the NST's. An interesting observation: under certain
operating conditions, the "output" ball gaps will fire erratically, as
would be expected. However, under other conditions the "input" gaps (right
across the NST output) will fire, while there is no activity at the
"output" gaps! There must be some strange resonances occurring to allow
this. All four gaps are set with identical spacing.
The only downside of using carbon steel balls is that they will rust if
exposed to moist air. McMaster-Carr offers stainless steel and bronze
balls, but they get pricey in the larger sizes. I got a coffee can of 1"
carbon steel balls for a few bucks and tried them first, but since I live
on the coast rust has been a problem. Next time I'll use stainless steel
balls if I can find them at the "right" price.
Regards,
Scott Hanson