Re: SRSG - Making hubs

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Marry Krutsch by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <u236-at-earthlink-dot-net>

Hi John,

	Could you share your method of making hubs?  I made one for my "big"
SRSG, and it wobbles a bit.  I guess the center hole isn't quite
straight.  Is good Al stock (straight, and of even composition)
necessary?  I can't afford big metal stock of any kind, so I used a slug
of melted down Al cans cast into 1.5" copper pipe.  It works, but not
the way I'd like it to.  I'm dissapointed, since I was very careful in
machining the piece, and used decent tools.  I'm also feel bad, since I
have access to high quality/somewhat rare equipment, yet can't make
something as simple as a hub ;-(.

Peace/good cheer to all,
Winston K.



Tesla list wrote:
> 
> Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
<FutureT-at-aol-dot-com>
> 
> In a message dated 7/22/02 9:57:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> writes:
> 
> Dan,
> 
> On one of my SRSG's, I used a 2" long hub to "extend" the shaft
> in a sense.  This permitted me to use the two series gaps behind
> the motor.  I made up the 2" long hub on the lathe from a 1" dia
> piece of aluminum stock.  However I'm not advocating the use of
> the two extra series gaps, just saying that it can be done.
> 
> If you use a conductive ring, it can be held in place using
> the same bolts and nuts that hold the tungsten electrodes.  These
> bolts will also provide an electrical connection to the ring.  The
> conductive ring does not need to be a thick metal, 0.025"
> copper, or 0.040" aluminum is thick enough, for up to
> a kilowatt or perhaps more.  The conductive ring can be
> placed either in front of, or behind the rotor disc.  In front
> of the disc gives a theoretically lower resistance connection,
> not that it will make a noticeable difference in performance.
> 
> Cheers,
> John