Re: Triggered Gap How-To?

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "ROBERT L BOZARTH JR. by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <jbdetails-at-prodigy-dot-net>


Hi Bill,
The basic, workable triggered gap is very simple and uses easily
purchased parts.
The easiest workable electrodes would be a brass rod or block maybe, For
the rod option a good tap is, what I was tough, a tourniquet splice.
This is when the strands of the lead are spread out and wrapped evenly
around the shank of the rod, then a thin wire is wrapped around these
strands to hold them tight against the shank, twisted tight and
soldered.
The contact surface area of wire to shank gives an almost nonexistent
connection electrically, the only think better would be a fusion splice
like Cadd or fusion lug.
These three electrodes are spaced apart in a T  config.
An Auto coil is used and driven by a standard light dimmer or fan
controller that is bought from a hardware store.
this dimmer connects much like in the light circuit, with the BLACK lead
passing through and then into a 3uf capacitor, out of the cap into the +
of the auto coil.
The - side gets connected to the neutral, or WHITE wire.
This gap works by the energy wave of the AC circuit "swinging" into the 
+ side of a sine wave, When it reaches a point where the diac triggers
on this allows the gate of the triac to turn on and energize the primary
of the auto coil.
"Snip".

Anyway we could see a schematic of that?


Bob Bozarth