Re: RQ gaps was -JF efficiency theory (again) - A possible work around.

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <uncadoc-at-juno-dot-com>

Hi Gary, Mark.  How about a welders glass, they are inexpensive and come
in varying grades of ultraviolet sheilding.  Most common is a #10 glass,
which I use for arc welding.  I have also used this type of glass to take
pictures of the solar eclipses with my video camera and regular 35mm
camera, the pictures turned out quite well.  I think you could also
experiment with a #11 welders glass, which will really cut back on
ultraviolet.  You could also stack cheaper grades of lenses and arrange
them as you see fit.  They are not very large but you could arrange an
overlapping set to cover just about all your needs.  Your local welders
supply outlet will have these glasses in abundance, and they are
inexpensive.  Then there is the special glass adhesive that stained glass
artisians use that dries crystal clear and is impervious to ultraviolet
light that would allow you to fasten glass plates as you see fit without
worrying about u/v breakdown, the sunlight actually makes the bond
stronger!   Commercial glass shops and larger stained glass/mail order
retailers will have this special adhesive. You could even arrange a
circular stacked type filter using the special adhesive.  Al.   

On Mon, 19 Feb 2001 23:08:35 -0700 "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
writes:
> Original poster: "Mark Broker by way of Terry Fritz 
> <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <broker-at-uwplatt.edu>
> 
> Thin strips of glass between the pipes ought to help.  Perhaps sone 
> glass
> slides, available from most any science surplus store?  The glass 
> would also
> help reduce the amounts of O3 and NO that land on the PVC (or 
> whatever) backing
> as well as shield the UV.
> 
> Varnish is used to cover epoxied boats.  The SPS (society of physics 
> students)
> is building a couple cedar strip canoes, which are fiberglassed and 
> epoxied. 
> The epoxy breaks down under long-term UV exposure, so they have to 
> be coated in
> expensive (about $80/gal) varnish.  It's expensive varnish because 
> it has to be
> rated for continuous under-water duty in our boating application.  
> Regular old
> spray-on varnish will accomplish the same thing for a 
> non-under-water
> application such as this.  However, I'd recommend using high-gloss, 
> as it's
> harder than satin.
> 
> Mark B
> 
> 
> Tesla list wrote:
> 
> >
> > Original poster: "Garry Freemyer by way of Terry Fritz
> > <mailto:twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net><twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>"
> <mailto:garry-at-ndfc-dot-com><garry-at-ndfc-dot-com>
> > 
> > I remember reading that glass tends to block ultraviolet and for 
> that
> > reason, they make black lights with a special glass that lets the 
> uv
> > through. I also remember that certain plastics that are used in 
> sunglasses
> > also block UV.
> > 
> > I was wondering if maybe the degradation could be reduced by 
> slipping thin
> > strips of glass or this plastic between the gaps would help. Or 
> maybe if
> > certain varnishes might block UV and maybe the interior of the pvc 
> could be
> > coated with this?
> > 
> > I also wonder if the ozone or nitrous oxide in the gap might also 
> be
> > contributing to the degradation. Since the gap is constantly 
> produc!
> > ing NO
> > and 03, it would always be present to some degree.
> > 
> 
> 
> 

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