Working with G-10 (was: Working with Plexiglas)

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Bill Vanyo by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <vanyo-at-echoes-dot-net>



Tesla list wrote:
> 
> Original poster: "terry oxandale by way of Terry Fritz
<twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <toxandale-at-cei-dot-net>
> 
> I made two round discs using Lexan by drilling and tapping a 1/4" hole in
> the table of my table saw,  6" from the edge of a 40 tooth carbide blade (a
> line from this hole to the blade was parallel and directly over the axis of
> the blade). Then I screwed a short 1/4" bolt into the tapped hole in the
> table as it passed through a 1/4" hole in the middle of the Lexan sheet
> (this bolt was the axis about which the Lexan sheet will be rotated, and was
> just tight enough to allow rotation of the Lexan sheet, but not so loose as
> to allow any play). Then as I rotated the Lexan sheet about this 1/4" bolt
> axle while lying on the flat table, I slowly raised the spinning saw blade
> up incrementally to make ever increasingly deeper cuts into the Lexan as it
> itself was being rotated.
[snip]
> (Un) Terry

I've used a similar technique with wood and some plastics (not  sure
exectly what).  I made a jig for my table saw that slides by the blade,
and hold the piece being cut so that I can rotate it.  Rather than
slowly raising the blade, I just take straight full cuts off my piece. 
First, an octagon, then cut corners, repeating till it's close enough
that I can just fully rotate the piece against the blade.  The results
look like they were turned on a lathe.

Anyway, my question is:  Just *how* hard is G-10 to work with?  Will a
carbide tipped blade on a table saw have trouble with it?

	- Bill V.