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Re: RQ gap, revisited

Actually, I'm thinking of filling the tubes with some sort of cooling fluid
and tipping the entire aasembly on it's side. I don't beleive in fans to
cool spark gaps. They always end up giving such a high break rate that an
MMC would start to sweat.
As to the steel vs sparks, well that shouldn't be a problem. Many people use
steel electrodes in rotary gaps if they can't get a hold of some tungsten.
I think wax or heavy oil might be a good choice for a cooling fluid, but I'd
lean more towards wax because it is usually solid and therefore less messy.
It'll be a while before I try it however. I'm working on a srsg which is
completely superior to this and every other static gap in my opinion.
Safe coiling,

----- Original Message -----
From: Tesla list <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 8:37 AM
Subject: RE: RQ gap, revisited

> Original poster: "Ted Rosenberg" <Ted.Rosenberg-at-radioshack-dot-com>
> Michael: Sounds like a path to pursue except for heat disappation and
> sparking using steel. Those two aspects need to be looked into further.
> My straightline, clamped gap
> uses larger than needed copper sweat couplings which are set then clamped
> for about 18 inches of linear gap.
> I ran the 900W coil on and off all day yesterday and the tubes never got
> hot...barely warm..and there are no fans at all.
> So while I think you should design and build one, be prepared to dump it
> the cartridges get too hot requiring a strange fan configuration or if the
> spark in steel has a noxious effect.
> Safety First
> Ted
> ============================
> Subject: RQ gap, revisited
> Original poster: "acmnovak" <acmnovak-at-msn-dot-com>
> Hello all,
> A recent trip to the sporting goods section of my local "bigK" has
> me.
> Ever use those little CO2 cylindars for BB and pellet guns? Well, I
> they would make the most ideal flat RQ gap electrodes imaginable. Mostly
> because the ends are rounded as to reduce corona losses and keep the bulk
> the spark formation limited to the center of the electrode as opposed to
> copper
> tubes, in which sparks generally form near the ends of the tubes.
> If one were to drill 3/8" holes down the width of a hardwood board
> 2"
> thick by 2" wide by say 12-18" long, and then use a bandsaw to cut the
> along the holes, those could be bolted togather to clamp the CO2
> in
> place without drilling their surfaces and creating any "bad RF" zones.
> the
> surfaces of the cartridges become eroded, simply loosen the bolts and turn
> each
> electrode 90 degrees.  Taps could be made by inserting some sort of cap or
> fuseholder over the ends of the cartridges.
> Also keep in mind that the CO2 cartridges should be empty before putting
> them
> to use. I have no idea how quickly CO2 expands with heat.
> Depending on the accuracy of the drill press used, the spacing could be
> anything from .001 to .3" with up to 10 segments. More than 10 segments
> require you to split the gap into two boards because the clamping action
> the
> wood/bolts deminishes with length.
> What do you think?
> Safe coiling,
> -Michael