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Re: Shellac Qs + Re: PVC Drying
I made my 6"x24" PVC secondary in the following way:
I cleaned off the factory markings with acetone, and sanded it until
it was nice and pretty.
I gave it two coats of polyurethane inside and out. I then epoxied on
the endcaps, which I had also polyurethaned inside and out. The
endcaps were predrilled for the winding jig axle.
I put the now sealed secondary form on the winding jig. I wound it
with 22 ga. magnet wire. I then gave it seven more coats of
polyurethane. I would run the winding jig while putting on a PU coat,
and let it run for about 15 min afterward so it would dry without
drips.
Finally, I epoxied a pvc fitting for the toroid onto the top of the
secondary, and an HDPE mounting plate onto the bottom.
I did not dry the pvc. This secondary has worked like a dream, and is
good looking too, in my humble opinion.
As John Freau and others have pointed out, all indicators are that the
worst losses occur in the spark gap, not the secondary.
paulmathus
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Subject: Shellac Qs + Re: PVC Drying
Author: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com> at INTERNET
Date: 7/29/00 4:44 PM
Original poster: "Alex Madsen" <alexmadsen-at-netzero-dot-net>
Shellac Qs: All the references to selling pvc or fixing coil windings say to
use shellac. Is there a reason for this or can I use polyurethane? I am
concerned about interference with coil operation or water permeability(fire
to!).
PVC drying: This is what the plans from Information Unlimited
(www.amazing1-dot-com) have to say on the pvc drying.
They deal with a lot of high voltage stuff and seem to know what they are
talking about but they are rather expensive.
"Special Note: For maximum performance it is suggested to thoroughly clean
the pvc tube inside and out and allow to dry in a dehumidified room." (I
think a heat gun will do the trick)"several coats of orange shellac should
be applied and allowed to completely dry before proceeding."
That is what U.I. has to say about that!
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