Re: Pour on coatings

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Mike Novak by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <acmnovak-at-email.msn-dot-com>

Sundog,
Didn't you read my post regaurding this "shtuff"? If you missed that one,
here's what you should've got out of it...

1.Mix, Mix, Mix, and Mix some more! The better you mix, the easier it is to
work with. It also dries MUCH faster... well, that is, it SETS faster. It
needs 24 hrs for a full cure. Any how, When I coat stuff I generally mix for
10-15 mins (despite the can's reccomendation of 5 mins). This eliminates the
5-6 hour spinning process. It takes about a single 180 degree turn per 10
mins without any visible defects.
2.Make sure it is in a clean, dust -free environment otherwise you'll get
little nasty dust bunnies stuck in the surafce... ewwww.
3.Use a hairdryer to remove bubbles AS SOON AS THEY FORM. If you wait too
long, they will leave marks in the surface because the epoxy has cured too
much and cannot self level any more.
4.As soon as it's set slightly, you can set it upright for the rest of the
curing process. And put a cover of some sort over it to prevent little
nasties from collecting on it's surface.

Good Luck everyone...


-Mike




----- Original Message -----
From: Tesla list <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 8:22 AM
Subject: Pour on coatings


> Original poster: "sundog by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>"
<sundog-at-timeship-dot-net>
>
>
>  Hi all,
>
>  Nope, not trying to open this can 'o worms again, but here's my
experience
> with it
>
>  After spending a lot of time spraying on poly, brushing on poly, and the
> tiresome job of putting on coat after coat, I decidid to quit avoiding my
> big box of Behr Build 50.  Here's my true story of it!
>
>   Firstly, I had avoided it because of the cost.  $38 for the stuff. 2
> quarts of resin, 1 quart of hardner. But I broke down and bought it, plus
a
> dozen cheap brushes.  I slapped together a winding machine, (gearhead
motor
> mounted on my wood lathe), blocked up the lathe so the form was fairly
> level(important!), and mixed up my pour-on in a paper cup.  I set the form
> spinning (medium-low speed), and began pouring slowly from one end to the
> other.  I poured it on the upwards-moving side of the coil, and kept the
> brush on the form as it turned, speading the stuff out in a nice even
coat.
> I let it turn for a few hours, then cut it off for a bit (mistake there),
> and later, turned the form 180 deg to get rid of the 2-3 drips that had
> started to collect.
>
>  The bad ..
>
>  It's messy.  Keep a lot of paper towels handy.  The resin is especially
> goopy.  I didn't spill much , but it did make a mess of the side of the
can.
> I cleaned up the can with acetone.
>   Takes *forever* to set up hard enough to stop the form and take it off
the
> winder.  Plan on leaving it running for at least 5-6 hours.
>   If the form isn't level, it'll "migrate" to 1 side. The low side.  And
> collect enough to drip.
>   It's expensive.
>   It's a relatively straightforward process, but you can screw it up.
>   During the curing of the pour-on, some bubbles came up and I removed
them
> (blow on 'em, the CO2 pops them), and it made bare spots over the
windings.
> Needed touch-up work with a toothpick and extra goop (there was plenty in
> the mixing cup I used)
>   Spilled pour-on is probably one of the most difficult things to clean
off
> the garage floor. I used a putty knife and a hammer.
>
> The good
>   1 coat is all you need.  My coat I put on last night is thicker than
I've
> ever managed with poly alone.
>   a little goes a *long* way.  For my 2x3" coil, I only mixed about 3-4oz
> total, and had some left over.
>   It's a gorgeous finish.  The thing is just beautiful!
>   Self-leveling. Once you brush it on and distribute it, it'll make a
> mostly-level and uniform coating.  The buldges and ripples I see are in
the
> PVC itself.
>   Easy to apply.  Just brush it, spreading it as you go, and let the coil
> spin. ~2-3 min to mix, ~2-10min to apply, then you're done.
>
>
> Tips for using this shtuff,
>   You need a winder. Just brushing it on will make horrible drips and a
big
> mess as it all settles to the lowest point. The winder has to run for ~5-6
> hours straight, so make sure the motor is up to it.  Low-medium speeds are
> best.
>   Mix it in paper cups.  Use a cheap brush you can throw away.Mix it with
> popcicle sticks or the like.
>   Use newspaper in abundance. This stuff can become a nightmare of a mess,
> very quickly. Best to throw away newspaper instead of trying to mop up the
> goo from the floor/workbench/etc.
>   You have ~15 min to mess with it once it's mixed.  So make a moderate
> amount to coat with, and if you run out, just mix up a bit more.  Best to
> mix some twice than to have half a cup you don't need.
>   Make sure the winder is level. This stuff runs downhill real good.
>   It isn't very odorous, but the whole fume/ventillation thing.
>   Cover the coil!!  Use newspaper and coathangers if you have to, but keep
> the dust/debris off.  Chances are, you'll do this in the garage. You don't
> want chunks of crud in there to be "streamer-targets" do ya ? :)
>      If it's a coil you don't really care about, just brush on poly.  If
you
> made a beautiful secondary and want to keep it that way, use Build 50.
>
> Nope, not a spokesperson, just appreciative of a great product!  Looks
> great on countertops too! Shad
>
>
>
>