Pour on coatings

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Original poster: "sundog by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <sundog-at-timeship-dot-net>


 Hi all,

 Nope, not trying to open this can 'o worms again, but here's my experience
with it

 After spending a lot of time spraying on poly, brushing on poly, and the
tiresome job of putting on coat after coat, I decidid to quit avoiding my
big box of Behr Build 50.  Here's my true story of it!

  Firstly, I had avoided it because of the cost.  $38 for the stuff. 2
quarts of resin, 1 quart of hardner. But I broke down and bought it, plus a
dozen cheap brushes.  I slapped together a winding machine, (gearhead motor
mounted on my wood lathe), blocked up the lathe so the form was fairly
level(important!), and mixed up my pour-on in a paper cup.  I set the form
spinning (medium-low speed), and began pouring slowly from one end to the
other.  I poured it on the upwards-moving side of the coil, and kept the
brush on the form as it turned, speading the stuff out in a nice even coat.
I let it turn for a few hours, then cut it off for a bit (mistake there),
and later, turned the form 180 deg to get rid of the 2-3 drips that had
started to collect.

 The bad ..

 It's messy.  Keep a lot of paper towels handy.  The resin is especially
goopy.  I didn't spill much , but it did make a mess of the side of the can.
I cleaned up the can with acetone.
  Takes *forever* to set up hard enough to stop the form and take it off the
winder.  Plan on leaving it running for at least 5-6 hours.
  If the form isn't level, it'll "migrate" to 1 side. The low side.  And
collect enough to drip.
  It's expensive.
  It's a relatively straightforward process, but you can screw it up.
  During the curing of the pour-on, some bubbles came up and I removed them
(blow on 'em, the CO2 pops them), and it made bare spots over the windings.
Needed touch-up work with a toothpick and extra goop (there was plenty in
the mixing cup I used)
  Spilled pour-on is probably one of the most difficult things to clean off
the garage floor. I used a putty knife and a hammer.

The good
  1 coat is all you need.  My coat I put on last night is thicker than I've
ever managed with poly alone.
  a little goes a *long* way.  For my 2x3" coil, I only mixed about 3-4oz
total, and had some left over.
  It's a gorgeous finish.  The thing is just beautiful!
  Self-leveling. Once you brush it on and distribute it, it'll make a
mostly-level and uniform coating.  The buldges and ripples I see are in the
PVC itself.
  Easy to apply.  Just brush it, spreading it as you go, and let the coil
spin. ~2-3 min to mix, ~2-10min to apply, then you're done.


Tips for using this shtuff,
  You need a winder. Just brushing it on will make horrible drips and a big
mess as it all settles to the lowest point. The winder has to run for ~5-6
hours straight, so make sure the motor is up to it.  Low-medium speeds are
best.
  Mix it in paper cups.  Use a cheap brush you can throw away.Mix it with
popcicle sticks or the like.
  Use newspaper in abundance. This stuff can become a nightmare of a mess,
very quickly. Best to throw away newspaper instead of trying to mop up the
goo from the floor/workbench/etc.
  You have ~15 min to mess with it once it's mixed.  So make a moderate
amount to coat with, and if you run out, just mix up a bit more.  Best to
mix some twice than to have half a cup you don't need.
  Make sure the winder is level. This stuff runs downhill real good.
  It isn't very odorous, but the whole fume/ventillation thing.
  Cover the coil!!  Use newspaper and coathangers if you have to, but keep
the dust/debris off.  Chances are, you'll do this in the garage. You don't
want chunks of crud in there to be "streamer-targets" do ya ? :)
     If it's a coil you don't really care about, just brush on poly.  If you
made a beautiful secondary and want to keep it that way, use Build 50.

	Nope, not a spokesperson, just appreciative of a great product!  Looks
great on countertops too!																	Shad