Re: Important questions...

• To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
• Subject: Re: Important questions...
• From: "Barton B. Anderson" <mopar-at-uswest-dot-net> (by way of Terry Fritz <terryf-at-verinet-dot-com>)
• Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 08:06:57 -0600
• Approved: terryf-at-verinet-dot-com

One consideration about "soft/stretching" coatings vs. the hard poly's. Should
your "wife" drop your coil or should you need to remove a couple windings for
repair due to a notty arc (been there both times), the softer coatings do
allow
you to peel it away rather nicely, make your repair, and recote. Up and
running
again without a lot of time waisted.
Bart

Tesla List wrote:

> Original Poster: Ed Phillips <evp-at-pacbell-dot-net>
>
> "to: Sam
>
> Avoid polyurethane -- after a year it will start cracking with changing
> temps.  Bullseye brand (or equiv.) clear shellac offers good moisture
> protection and will stretch to prevent cracking.  Dolph's AC-43
> synthetic
> HV air dry varnish works best on enameled magnet wire.
>
> DR.RESONANCE-at-next-wave-dot-net"
>
>         Shellac (I like the look of orange Bullseye brand, which is becoming
> quite expensive) has always worked fine for me, even on cardboard tubes,
> with which I've had good luck..  If the form is small enough to go into
> the oven, I usually bake it for a couple of hours at as close the
> charring temperature as I dare, then coat it inside and out while still
> warm.  Repeating this a couple of times gives a nice, rigid coil form.
> It is often possible to peel a couple of the inner layers out of the
> tube, giving a nice thin form.
>
>         I've seen shellac denegrated here, with polyurethane preferred.  I
> haven't observed the cracking you report, but it doesn't seem to work
> any better than the shellac.
>
> Ed

• Prev: Pole pig TAPS??
• Next: RE: My First PIG and it's operation
• Index(es):
  • Main
  • Thread