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2N3055 Inverter




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From:  Bill Noble [SMTP:william_b_noble-at-email.msn-dot-com]
Sent:  Saturday, May 30, 1998 12:18 AM
To:  Tesla List
Subject:  Re: 2N3055 Inverter

don't waste your time with a 555 oscilator - you don't care what freq the
thing runs at so long as it resonates.  Run a pair of 3055's to drive a
center tapped Xformer, and just drive the base from the opposite side's
transformer connection through a resistor - you can get the idea from an old
delta CD ignition, for example.

(and by the way, the Dynakit stereo 120 amplifier used 3055s for the drive
transistors)

one more note - the 60 watts is dissipation, not power handling - as I
recall a 3055 will handle a collector current of around 5 amps continuous,
probably about 15 peak - since this type of circuit has a low duty cycle for
the transistors you can run well above average current (at least twice).
-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: 'Tesla List' <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Date: Thursday, May 28, 1998 10:51 PM
Subject: 2N3055 Inverter


>
>----------
>From:  Malcolm Watts [SMTP:MALCOLM-at-directorate.wnp.ac.nz]
>Sent:  Thursday, May 28, 1998 12:49 AM
>To:  Tesla List
>Subject:  Re: 2N3055 Inverter
>
>Hi Gary,
>
>> From:  gweaver [SMTP:gweaver-at-earthlink-dot-net]
>> Sent:  Wednesday, May 27, 1998 6:51 AM
>> To:  Tesla List
>> Subject:  2N3055 Inverter
>>
>> That sounds like a good plan.  Do you have an inverter circuit that you
can
>> email to me?  gweaver-at-earthlink-dot-net
>>
>> I built a circuit using a 555 timer IC to drive a 2N3055 transistor at 60
>> HZ.  I am using 12 VDC to power this device and the output goes to a 10:1
>> step up transformer.  It won't work because the transistor won't shut
down
>> completely.  I need the transistor to go from 0 volts to 12 volts and
back
>> to 0 again but what I am really getting is 5 volts to 12 volts and back
to 5
>> again.
>
>The output of a 555 is incapable of driving a 2N3055 into hard
>saturation with Amps of collector current.
>
>> Another thing I built is a 100 amp relay wired so when it turns on it
breaks
>> the circuit and turns off again.  The relay buzzes ON/OFF very fast and
>> loud.  I connected 12 VDC to the extra relay contacts and to a 10:1
>> transformer and get 120 volts AC out at some unknow frequency.  This
thing
>> is very loud and the relay contacts over heat.
>>
>> I also have a 12 volt DC fork lift motor driving a 90 volts DC permentant
>> magnet motor.  The 90 volts DC motor puts out about 89 volts.  It works
>> great but a neon won't run on DC volts.  This thing will light up 8 100
watt
>> light bulbs.
>
>A neon will if the DC volts are high enough.
>
>> 5 amps X 12 volts = 60 watts, thats not enough to run a neon.  I have
about
>> 18 or so 2N3055 transistors.  Can I put several transistors in parallel
to
>> increase the power.  I would like to have 1500 watts but for now I will
take
>> anything I can get and worry about more power later.
>
>You need AMPS of base current to do the job. HFE is low at Ic of
>several amps and drops as Ic goes higher.
>
>Malcolm
>
>> Will the high frequency feed back from the TC thourgh the neon effect the
>> inverter?  Might need a filter circuit.
>>
>> Gary Weaver
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >From:  Bill Noble [SMTP:william_b_noble-at-email.msn-dot-com]
>> >Sent:  Tuesday, May 26, 1998 1:54 AM
>> >To:  Tesla List
>> >Subject: motor generator
>> >
>> >why bother with a motor generator when you can make a perfectly adequate
>> >inverter with an old filament transformer and a couple of transistors??
>> >Seriously, all you need are the transformer, two transistors and four
>> >resistors. How much power do you really need?  a 2n3055 will cary about
5
>> >amps at 60 volts, and it's really cheap.  The old motor/generator is
>> >probably worth more as something to put on the shelf than as a power
source.
>> >
>> >There are such things as self excited generators, back in the dark days
when
>> >I worked on airplanes, the L-1011 had such a thing, wherein a permanent
>> >magnet got the thing started, and then one winding acted as a generator
to
>> >provide current to the other.  This eliminated the need for brushes,
which
>> >is good in an aircraft application.
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>> >To: 'Tesla List' <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>> >Date: Monday, May 25, 1998 8:39 PM
>> >Subject: Dyna-motor generator
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >>----------
>> >>From:  gweaver [SMTP:gweaver-at-earthlink-dot-net]
>> >>Sent:  Monday, May 25, 1998 11:36 AM
>> >>To:  Tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
>> >>Subject:  Dyna-motor generator
>> >>
>> >>I have an antique dyna-motor generator that is fried.  I took it apart
>> >today
>> >>and unwound one of the windings.  I am trying to figure out what makes
this
>> >>thing work.  When I get it fixed I hope to run the generator on my car
>> >>battery to get 120 vac to power a Tesla Coil.
>> >>
>> >>The armature has a DC winding with brushes.  This winding has 16 coils.
>> >The
>> >>field winding has 2 coils and is only wide enough to cover the 16 drive
>> >>winding, not the generator windings.  These coils are not connected to
the
>> >>generator coils.  Probably 6 volt DC winding.
>> >>
>> >>The generator section is offset from the drive section about 2".
>> >>
>> >>The generator section has no field winding.  The generator has 2 sets
of
>> >>windings that turn on the armature.  One set of winding are wound with
#26
>> >>wire and the other set of winding are wound with #16 wire.  Each of
these
>> >>windings has 4 coils like a 60 HZ electric motor.  Each set of winding
are
>> >>rotated (offset) from each other, it looks like the start and run
windings
>> >>of an electric motor.  The output is from 2 circle rings and brushes.
>> >>
>> >>This is the interesting part.  The generator section has on power
applied
>> >to
>> >>it internally.  It may be picking up a small amount of magnet field
from
>> >the
>> >>drive section but it can't be very much because of the way its designed
>> >with
>> >>the 2 being seperate.  The #26 and #16 winding are both connected in
>> >>parallel.  The #26 winding is connected to a centrifical switch.  As
the
>> >>armature picks up speed the switch opens and drops out the #26 winding.
>> >The
>> >>output of the generator is totally from the #16 winding.  I think the
>> >output
>> >>is suppost to be 32 vac 15 amps.  I can use a step up transformer to
get
>> >120
>> >>vac or rewind the unit to produce 120 vac.
>> >>
>> >>Is the #26 winding some how energizing the generator to get it started?
>> >>Then once it starts generating it energizes itself?
>> >>
>> >>This thing is very old.  I got it at an old antique engine show last
>> >summer.
>> >>It was probably built around the turn of the centery.  The original
name
>> >tag
>> >>is still on it.  It has nothing stamped on the name tag where it says
volts
>> >>and amps.  The volt meter goes to 50 volts and the amp meter goes to 15
>> >>amps.  I know that many of the early generators built in those days
were 32
>> >>volts so I figure this thing is probably designed to produce 32 volts.
>> >>
>> >>The name plate says.  Fort Wayne Electric Works.  Fort Wayne Indiana.
It
>> >>even has the serial number.
>> >>
>> >>It has 2 panel mount meters that are both broken and 2 variable
resistors.
>> >>One variable resistor says volts and the other one says amps.  One of
the
>> >>variable resistors is broken.  The wiring to the meters and resistors
are
>> >>missing.   I would like to hook this thing up without the meters and
>> >>resistors if it will run that way.
>> >>
>> >>Does anyone know anything about this type of generator technology?
>> >>
>> >>Gary Weaver
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
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