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Re: Rotary Modifications Update



---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 16:12:24 -0500
From: "DR.RESONANCE" <DR.RESONANCE-at-next-wave-dot-net>
To: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Subject: Re: Rotary Modifications Update

To: Chuck

We affix screw in tungsten-molydenum alloy electrodes which are 1/2 inch
dia into 1/2 inch dia x 1 1/4 inch long brass rod stock which is axially
pressed thru the G-10 rotor material.  The stationary electrodes and the
same and heat sunk into the holders which are 1 x 1 inch x 2 inch high
solid brass stock.  They do a great job of conducting and absorbing heat
from the tungstens.

DR.RESONANCE-at-next-wave-dot-net


----------
> From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> Subject: Rotary Modifications Update
> Date: Sunday,October 12,1997 12:55 PM
> 
> 
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 18:14:56 -0500
> From: Chuck Curran <ccurran-at-execpc-dot-com>
> To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> Subject: Rotary Modifications Update
> 
> Hello All:
> 
> Thought I might share with you the last run for this year of my coil and
> the current performance after modifying my rotary.  Each spring for the
> last two years I drag my winters project up out of the basement and set
it
> up in the garage, but I do need to park my truck inside during the
> Wisconsin winter season! 
> 
> I had been running with brass stationary electrodes that were effectively
> about 3/8" across at the tapered end that conducted.  In order to search
> for better system performance by addressing the quench issue, I installed
> 1/8" diameter tungsten rods, heat sunk by the original 1" diameter brass
> rod that is 1 1/4" long.  System performance improved and initially
things
> looked good, but the real story was that 1/8" tungsten couldn't live long
> with 14-16 Kw going through them.  (There is also 7 stationary gaps in
the
> vacuum gap system in series.)  The 1/8" tungsten simply died of fright. 
> My next effort was to obtain a sample piece of 3/16" diameter tungsten,
> which by the way is referenced as a tri-metal non-thoriated material.  A
> farily new product that our local supplier had available.  I installed
the
> 3/16 and have run the system on four different nights now.  Last night,
> prior to setting up, I checked the gap whick was originally set at .025",
> or quite honestly, as close as I could get it.  I simply tried sticking
in
> a .030" feeler gage and it would not go.  My short term results are real
> encouraging at this point.  The system was set up and I ran it for a
group
> of about 18 from work, three runs of 3-4 minutes each.  The second run
> gave one spark that hit the strike rail with several other forks, and
then
> the rotary motor started to slow down.  What happened was a blown bridge
> rectifier in the DC supply for the rotary motor.  The arc to the strike
> rail might have been a coincidence, the bridge rectifier should have been
> on a heat sink, but I skipped that--mistake!  I replaced it and was up
and
> running for the third run with about the best sparks I've gotten for this
> night.  The later it gets, the less wind there is outside and that must
> help some.  I wish I could run it inside once, just to see if there might
> be an improvement.  My next step will be to work on the moving electrodes
> which are presently acorn nuts.  I plan on trying tungsten there too, a
> project for when the snow's on the ground.  I'm wondering what diameter
> tungsten others use and if it is heat sunk or not, along with how often
> adjustments due to wear are needed--just curious. 
> 
> Chuck
> 
>