Re: Ed's striking problem

To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
Subject: Re: Ed's striking problem
From: "Robert W. Stephens" <rwstephens-at-headwaters-dot-com>
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 17:18:10 -0500
Subscriber: rwstephens-at-headwaters-dot-com Sun Jan 12 22:16:16 1997
> Date:          Thu, 9 Jan 1997 22:38:53 -0700
> From:          Tesla List <tesla-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com>
> To:            Tesla-list-subscribers-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com
> Subject:       Re: Ed's striking problem
> Reply-to:      tesla-at-pupman-dot-com

> Subscriber: Esondrmn-at-aol-dot-com Thu Jan  9 22:33:15 1997
> Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 18:02:18 -0500 (EST)
> From: Esondrmn-at-aol-dot-com
> To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> Subject: Re: Ed's striking problem
> 
> In a message dated 97-01-09 01:21:22 EST, you write:
> 
> << Ed,
>  
>  I seem to recall seeing pictures of your coil some time ago with the two
> different
>  diameter toroids stacked so that the bigger one is on the bottom, and then
> you 
>  were using a wire point to cause breakaway in a desired direction.
>  
>  Can you make a donut just a little bigger than your secondary , maybe 
>  2-3 inches in total diameter greater with some small 3 inch diameter 
>  aluminum flex duct. You will basically have to wind a single turn 
>  with this stuff as tight as you can to work on your 6 inch coil.  You 
>  might be better off finding some 2 inch diameter material for this.  
>  I've seen a product in the stores which is a water plaything that 
>  floats called a 'Water Noodle'.  It is flexible foamed plastic in 
>  florescent colors about two inches in diameter and 4 feet or so 
>  long.  You could take some of this, turn it into a tight circle and 
>  cover it with adhesive aluminum tape.  You could also make a suitable 
>  coil end field shaper by aluminum taping a couple of frisbees 
>  together I guess.  We coilers will do whatever works, and is cheap.
>    
>  Mount it about 1-2 inches above the top winding, and then
>  electrically connected in the same assembly, suspend your two larger
> siamessed
>  toroids (acting as a bigger single unit) maybe 6-10 inches spaced above the
> first
>  small diameter one.  In the upper unit, have the bigger diameter unit on 
>  top.  Try this with a bleeder point to tune her up and after you've 
>  got her tuned remove the bleeder point.  I hope you will find that 
>  this will help throw streamers out and away from your coil while 
>  reducing the strikes directly downwards.  If you implement this idea let me
>  know what happens please. 
>  
>  rwstephens
>   >>
> 
> rwstephens,
> 
> I think I have seen this on most of Richard Hull's coils.  If I understand
> it, a small toroid mounted just above the secondary to provide shading to the
> top of the coil then the massive toroid is raised up higher to get it away
> from the secondary.  I have some small toroids (10 and 12") that I just made
> for my new 3.0" coil.  I could mount one of these on the 6" then using a
> metal spacer of say 12" (?) mount the larger toroids up on top.  Do I have
> this correct?
> 
> I did try to fix this problem by laying a section of 3/8" clear tubing all
> around the top outside edge of the 40" toroid and covering it with foil tape.
>  The idea was to give it a smaller edge to breakout from, facing up and
> outward from the coil.  It doesn't work too well at 5 to 7 kva.  It still
> really likes the primary.
> 
> Ed Sonderman

Ed,

Yes, metal spacer between, the entire top thingy one piece 
electrically, that's what I meant.  Maybe it's just time to wind a 
10, 12 or 15 inch or even larger coil eh?

rwstephens