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RE: Spark Gap Design Alternatives




Hi Tedd, All,
I made such a gap with 1 1/2" brass rod sliced, faced, and tapped for
1/4 20 TPI thru.  The inside holes were heavily champhered to prevent
arcing along the threaded rod.  I used fiberglass threaded rod.
They got very hot after about 1 minute.  The rod started to cook
after about 2 minutes.  I had about six gaps.  The end pieces were
2" long.  The middle pieces were about 1/2" long.  It would make a nice
quench gap if more gaps were used and big air cooled fins were put on
them i.e. aluminum discs say 4" in diameter (extrapospeculation).
Barry

 ----------
From: "tesla"-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com-at-PMDF-at-PAXMB1
To: Benson Barry; "Tesla-list-subscribers"-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com-at-PMDF-at-PAXMB1
Subject: Spark Gap Design Alternatives
Date: Wednesday, February 19, 1997 1:22AM

<<File Attachment: 00000000.TXT>>
Subscriber: paynet-at-interaccess-dot-com Tue Feb 18 22:49:46 1997
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 15:42:04 -0600
From: "Tedd W. Payne" <paynet-at-interaccess-dot-com>
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
Subject: Spark Gap Design Alternatives

I'm planning a TC using a 12KV/30mA neon xfmr, .006-.009uF cap, etc.  For
the spark gap I'm wondering about the following design as an alternative to
a series of copper pipe sections:

There would be 6 copper or brass disks, each about 1 inch diameter and 1
inch long, all in a line, thus forming 5 gaps (visualize as a sliced
salami).  Further, the disks would all have a 1/4-20 threaded hole thru the
center, and would be on a 1/4-20 threaded nylon rod.  The faces on the disks
would be lathe-turned and would be perpendicular to the length of the nylon
rod.  The gaps could be adjusted like adjusting nuts on a screw.  The whole
assembly might rest in a shallow "trough" in some insulating material.

My questions:

1. Would the nylon stand up to the heat?  If not, is there a suitable
material I could find threaded (or thread myself)?

2. Would the 1 inch diameter and length be enough for good heat dissipation?
   Would other proportions be better?

3. Which would be better, brass or copper?

4. Would the individual disks be likely to rotate (get out of adjustment)
during use?

5. Any other problems or considerations?


Thanks for any comments or ideas!

Tedd