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Re: More rotary gap questions...
Subject: Re: More rotary gap questions...
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 17:02:03 -0400
From: "Edward J. Wingate" <ewing7-at-frontiernet-dot-net>
To: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>
> I wanted to thank everyone for the info on hot vs. insulated rotors,
> and sources for the laminate ;'}
>
> Now I'm wondering about the rotating electrodes, I've heard mentioned
> brass pins, brass screws with stainless acorn nuts, and some sort of
> threaded holder with tungsten rods.
>
> I'm guessing, from what I've heard, that almost anything will work,
> as long as your system stays in tune.
>
> These 'flaming power arcs' that I've heard so much about would probably
> destroy just about anything in short order, correct ?
>
> I'm thinking about useing the 'brass screw/acorn nut' method, since it
> seems so easy to make/repair/balance...
>
> Does anything in the collective wisdom suggest a better solution ?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Daryl
Daryl,
I can supply you with matched .250" dia. solid tungsten studs ground to
1.5" length within .002" for $7.00 each. I use, and recommend, nothing
but solid tungsten studs on any of the gaps that I use because of the
durability and safety factor. Screw in inserts can work loose because
the two different materials involved expand at different rates when
heated.
I have 6 continuous hours of run time at 8 to 10 KW on the .250 dia.
studs in the rotor on the series rotary gap I use with my magnifier and
the stud erosion is minimal. In addition, when the studs do errode
sufficiently all you have to do is pull them out and face them off on a
belt sander or grinder and it only costs you the time it takes to do it.
No extra cost to replace inserts!
Safe Coiling Always,
Ed Wingate