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RE: Coil questions





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> From: 	Tesla List[SMTP:tesla-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com]
> Sent: 	Tuesday, October 01, 1996 11:25 PM
> To: 	Tesla-list-subscribers-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com
> Subject: 	Coil questions
> 
> >From DavidF4797-at-aol-dot-comTue Oct  1 21:36:19 1996
> Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 00:46:26 -0400
> From: DavidF4797-at-aol-dot-com
> To: tesla-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com
> Subject: Coil questions
> 
> Hello:
> 
> I am currently building a vacume tube Tesla coil and was refered here by
> Richard Quick.  Perhaps you could answer a couple of questions for me: 
> 
> 1.) Who makes #601 red insulating varnish, where can I pruchase it and are
> there other/better ways to inuslate a coil once wrapped and lock down its
> turns to keep them from vibrating and/or loosening durring use (which I
> imagine is not a wonderful thing).
> 
> 2.) Richard Quick (who seems to be very knowledgeable about these things)
> seems to like the Noon computer program for calculating the basics of coil
> design.  He, and others, however, also say that the shape of the primary
> [inverted conical helix, and flat pancake] and the resulting improved
> coupling charactoristics and uniform excitation of the secondary will "blow
> away other designs by producing bigger sparks with much less input power."
>  In using the Noon software, however, I noticed that the softwares'
> calculated output voltage for any Tesla coil secondary is directly related to
> (and only to) the input power (wattage) of the driving supply.  This seems to
> indicate to me that either Mr. Quick or Mr. Noon is incorrect. (I suspect
> that Mr. Quick has the right idea).  If this is so, how would one modify the
> answer supplied by the Noon software so that it might more accurately
> represent the output voltage of a properly coupled and uniformly driven coil
> set?  And by the way, what formula is the Noon software using to calculate
> the output voltage of the Tesla coil secondary and what criteria is it based
> upon (the standard conical helix primary?)?



David,
	I'll try to answer the first question with an alternative method. 
I currently use polyurethane and have found it to be quite satisfactory in
sealing coils. But first, let me guide you threw the proccess I use for 
making a coil.

1) Wet sand your form (PVC...Acrylic, etc.) in a bathtub. And dry in a
conventional oven on low or in the sun, until completely dry.

2) With even strokes, place three coats of polyurethane on the form to seal
it from moisture and RF. Allow a drying time of 24 hours minimum.

3) Place two strips of double sided carpet tacking tape on the form. Make
sure that you use the plastic tape type. This will ensure that your wire will 
not fly off the form when winding.

4) Using some form of winding stand, tightly wrap the wire around the form
according to the number of turns required. Please use magnet wire.

5) Using broad strokes, seal the coil form with polyurethane until the coil
surface is smooth as glass. Keep in mind that the sealing process may
require several days to complete.

D. Gowin