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Re: Cabinet/AC Power Cord
I am a big fan of the Twistlock connectors.. They'll run a bit more, but
unlike the "stove plug" devices, they take repeated connection and
disconnection. The stove plug/receptacle (straight blade) aren't really
designed for repeated use. (how many times have you unplugged your electric
oven?)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Date: Friday, May 26, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: RE: Cabinet/AC Power Cord
>Original Poster: "Ted Rosenberg" <Ted.Rosenberg-at-radioshack-dot-com>
>
>
>Good point Jim. Had not thought of that and 7A is just below what my coil
will
>likely draw.
>OK...so what is a good way to have a quick disconnect but current-heavy AC
>power cord that goes to my external variac? I guess at this point I should
get
>some appropriate 3 line cable (30A or so) and a male/female surface mount
combo
>from my neighborhood Home Despot or True Value? BTW, the thermostat covers
are
>carried by McMaster and range about $20-25 for a decent size with a key to
keep
>the dumb and unauthorized out. This is definitely on my buy list. Thanks.
>
>Ted R.
>
>Subject: Re: Cabinet
>
>Original Poster: "Jim Lux" <jimlux-at-earthlink-dot-net>
>
>>
>> Original Poster: "Powdermnky007" <Powdermnky007-at-hotmail-dot-com>
>>
>> That sounds good, and should work nicely. How many amps are those
>computer cords made to conduct. Do you think it will hold up?
>
>Jim comments:
>
>most of those computer cords are 18 AWG, and are designed to carry no MORE
>than 7Amps, and possibly less. 7 Amps is the rating of the IEC input
>connector. Given that the computer biz is highly cost driven, and they
>want to save every penny possible, computer cords are about the cheapest
>thinnest possible cord you can get.
>
>