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Re: Cabinet
Hi all!
I sort of dis-reccommend using computer power cables...I'm using
one now to run my bank of NST's. There's 6 12/30's in the bank,
and running a Jacob's ladder (really pretty!), the cord gets warm
in seconds, and hot in less than a minute. I don't have any PFC
caps on it, but I was peaking around 15+ amps, and drawing around
5-6 steady. PFC caps would reduce that figure a bit, but the cable
just isn't really up to handle it. I'd recommend a good
construction-grade extension cable. Home Depot has some thick (½"
thick) 25' cords that should work a lot better for that. Most
computer power cords aren't made to handle more than a few amps
steady. I like the idea of a locking box, but perhaps you should
locate it on the base of the TC, so nobody can just plug your
extension cord into any 'ole outlet.
Just my $.02 :) Keep it runnin man!
Caio!
Shad
-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Date: Thursday, May 25, 2000 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: Cabinet
>Original Poster: "Powdermnky007" <Powdermnky007-at-hotmail-dot-com>
>
>That sounds good, and should work nicely. How many amps are those
computer
>cords made to conduct. Do you think it will hold up?
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 12:12 PM
>Subject: RE: Cabinet
>
>
>> Original Poster: "Ted Rosenberg" <Ted.Rosenberg-at-radioshack-dot-com>
>>
>>
>> Noted the photo and it looks good...for control of something far
more
>powerful
>> than my modest coil.
>> I am using a static gap (Scot linear) so no rotary motor. My 2
muffin fans
>for
>> cooling will be 12VDC with 0-12DC supply.
>>
>> One variac external for the main supply.
>> BTW, the coil is only 15KV/60 with a 6x24 secondary.
>> One idea was suggested for safety...
>> I plan a computer type AC socket on one cabinet panel. A
computer type
>power
>> cord will run from that socket to the variac.
>>
>> To ensure that no unauthorized idiot connects a cord when I am
not there,
>the
>> AC outlet will have a locking cover like used on a thermostat in
public
>> buildings.
>>
>> Red indicators are there only as a reminder that power is
on...should not
>> sparks be breaking out. It is not there as a "safety" like on a
gun.
>>
>> Thanks to those who replied. It all helps.
>>
>> Ted R.
>>
>> Subject: Re: Cabinet
>>
>> Original Poster: "Powdermnky007" <Powdermnky007-at-hotmail-dot-com>
>>
>> If I were you, i would try not to mount them onto the body of
the cabinet.
>> Run a few wires and mount them along with variacs, volt meters
etc. on a
>> wooden board
>> so you can adjust the coil from a safe distance.
>>
>> Below text came from author of picture:
>>
>> ES1: This is a partial picture of my control "board".
>>
>>
><http://users.better-dot-org/tfritz/site/misc/es1.jpg>http://users.bet
ter-dot-org/t
>> fritz/site/misc/es1.jpg
>>
>> ==========
>>
>> Lower left is two variacs which I run in series to control the
speed of
>the
>> rotary gap motor. One is set to limit the maximum rpm and the
other is
>used
>> to bring the speed up slowly. Above these are the 60 cycle
supple lines
>> going out to the coil. One is for the rotary gap motor, the
other is for
>> the
>> fan motors on the rotary and the static gap used in series.
>>
>> The heavy powerstat variac is in the center bottom - used to
contro the
>> voltage to the pole pig. Above that is the ammeter and
voltmeter to
>monitor
>> the pole pig primary. Above that you can see the primary feed
lines going
>> to the pole pig.
>>
>> To the right, are the 60 cycle line filters and some home made
toroid
>> filters
>> used in series with the 60 cylce ground connection.
>>
>> Upper right is the plug for the welder (used to limit pole pig
primary
>> current) and the plug for the resistive bank (oven elements)
used in
>> parallel with the welder primary also to control the pole pig
primary
>current.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>