Thank you very much for the info, I'm just getting started still in the
middle of a dual-pole VDG about 480KV +/- each side just to see if it works
=)
I dont know with static machines so many weird things seem to happen once
you hit a certain voltage i'm always amazed how much physics you can do
with such simple machines.
Of course Tesla Coils are my original true passion, I gave up due to lack
of funds and time. Now I have funds, time, tools, and a regained drive. I'm
looking forward to coaxing out some serious streamers again!
Also I do love the smaller DRSSTC there is something very pure and precise
about it's nature, almost like a higher evolution of the Tesla Coil. Can't
beat the roar of a spark gap though.
Regards,
Matt Sweeney
On Fri, Sep 4, 2015 at 4:44 PM, Jim Lux <jimlux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> On 9/4/15 12:10 PM, Matthew Sweeney wrote:
>
>> So after all these years of static generators I've decided to build a
>> really decent coil. I know some electronics but not much high power RF so
>> probably a spark gap. I've looked online in my various books and find a
>> lot
>> is disagreement about primary tank arrangement, use of inductors and
>> 'squenched spark gaps'.
>>
>> I don't need and entire plan but I'd be delighted for some simple tips for
>> my design:
>>
>
> Easy enough.
>
> How big a coil? NST powered? MOT? Pig?
> Sparkgap or Solid state.
> I'm going to assume sparkgap
>
>
>> * what type of secondary wire where to buy
>>
>
> eBay or Amazon
>
> I find that AWG30 is way too small, AWG16 is probably too big.. Somewhere
> in the middle is easy to wind. AWG24 is a convenient size.
>
> Look up in a wire table how many feet per pound you get, and you can order
> 1 pound or 5.
>
> A motor rewinding shop will often sell you wire by the pound, if you want
> to do it retail.
>
>
>
> * ideal secondary form material (I used pvc in the past).
>>
> PVC is good
>
>
> * good place for decent HV caps for the long series/parralel type (do I
>> need resistors for these).
>>
>
> The usual mail order places, mouser, digikey, allied, etc.. The prices
> and availability change on a day to day/week to week basis. I've noticed
> serious price anomalies where stringing 1.6kV units was actually cheaper
> than 2kV units.
>
>
> * primary winding material/type I've used copper tube inclined out I see a
>> lot of recent coils just wind straight up with thick solid insulate wire?
>>
>
> I like flat primaries: easy and gives good field control. Cylindrical
> primaries tend to have too high coupling which gives you a racing spark
> problem. Cones aren't worth it, IMNSHO
>
> You can prototype with AWG 12 house wire and then change to copper tubing
> when you get it working.
>
>
>
> * best design for primary tank like arrangement of gap/caps.
>>
>
> I like spark gap shunt across transformer, single C in series with primary
> L.
>
>
> * feedback prevention.
>> * where to find a decent affordable variac. I've seen people using light
>> dimmer switch this seems insane!
>>
>
> Why not? If it works.
>
>
> * I have 12k,12k,15k 30ma old francefoormers.
>>
>
> You can gang them up in parallel.
>
> * I do have a scope but no frequncy generator. Could I literally use my
>> computer/phone with a simple unamplified sine generator.
>>
>
> You can tune by running the apps to get close, and then basically do the
> traditional "tune for maximum length".
>
>
> * rotary slark gap? Is it worth it, what troubles does it bring?
>>
>
> I've always used static and/or triggered gaps. I'll let others comment.
> For a NST, a static gap is easy. Make it something that is easy to cool.
>
>
>
>
>> Thank you so much for any info as noted I'm checking online too but this
>> group seem to have major experience.
>>
>
> Why yes, indeed, we do.
>
>
>
>> Matt
>>
>> Minnesota
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>>
>>
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