Thanks for all the tips. I found a few things.. first I made a digital
gauge using a high quality miter block/runner/whatever and a digital
run-out gauge. Then I loosened up the screws 'slightly' and could actually
see the positive/negative as I tapped the motor with a rubber mallet.
Then I noticed something, the blade angle lock was obviously still
tightened and it seemed like the whole assembly was connected. So I
loosened it just slightly so it was still at 0/90 degrees then tapped the
motor till i got about 0.003 inches back to front. I locked it all in there.
Then I checked the fence and it too was out by 0.010 inches. I loosened up
the back bolt a little to give it more 'freedom' to align correctly and
made sure to provide forward pressure when I lock it down.
With that I read 0.0005 on the fence, which is quite good.
So now I get apparently straight cuts but I do notice a very small amount
of burn on the rear end of some cuts. This could be to pressure loss
against the fence as I move stock through - so I flipped it over and ran it
again and it seemed to even everything out.
So right now it seems I'm at less than 0.005 on the blade and 0.0005 on the
fence. I think that's pretty good for a $600 saw =)
I will say the tabletop surface really sucks compared to the saw-stop, I
know there is some wax or other stuff I can use to smooth things up a bit.
But at this point I'm OK I think I'm happy with this precision at the price
I paid and the saw has tons of power for so portable.
However, I'm still going to buy sawstop. My local 'proper' wood working
shop had three models on display and I'm love with all of them.
I must now decide router or another table saw - of course, I'll go with a
decent router first, then a planar =)
Thanks again for all the tips!
Matt
On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 2:31 PM, Aron Koscho <kc5uto@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Dewalt has, by far, the best rip fence accuracy of any table saw south of
> $1500. DWE7490 is in the range you're working with.
>
> Aron
>
> On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 5:04 PM, Dave Leddon <dave@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > Here's a technique that I use to adjust the blade on my cheap Craftsman
> > table saw. First adjust
> > the fence to be parallel to the miter grooves in the table top. Raise
> the
> > blade to its highest
> > position. Loosen the bolts underneath the table that hold the blade
> arbor
> > cradle and the slide
> > the fence up to the blade sandwiching a piece of wood between the blade
> > and the fence. Lock down
> > the fence and then using a pair of c-clamps clamp the blade, the block of
> > wood and fence together.
> > Now tighten the cradle bolts. Hopefully this will get you in the
> > ballpark.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > At 12:26 PM 9/6/2015, you wrote:
> >
> >> Suggestion: go to www.owwm.org and look in the BYOD section for
> >> woodworking
> >> - this is a group that specializes in older wood working tools, not the
> >> complete junk that is sold to people that don't know better by the big
> box
> >> stores. I have sold a Rockwell Unisaw for far less than the usless saw
> >> you
> >> bought cost. You can get a decent saw with a cast iron top for as
> little
> >> as $10 if you look around. Don't settle for stamped out garbage that is
> >> barely suitable for cutting framing lumber.
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Tesla [mailto:tesla-bounces@xxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of daniel hess
> >> Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2015 10:39 AM
> >> To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> >> Subject: Re: [TCML] Off topic table saw question.
> >>
> >> Matt:
> >>
> >> I don't think you need a cabinet-grade table saw to get
> better-than-decent
> >> straight cuts. I have an old Craftsman, Made-in-Taiwan 10" table saw
> that
> >> with the proper time spent setting up & adjusting, (and using a dial
> >> gauge),
> >> cuts beautifully straight & true.
> >> But 1/8th of an inch is an awful lot. Usually, when a saw is out of
> >> alignment were speaking a a few thousands of an inch. 1/8" sounds like
> >> it's
> >> been dropped or otherwise seriously damaged. Otherwise, Bosch makes
> better
> >> than average equipment.
> >>
> >> I can't tell you what to do but if I could get a refund, I think I would
> >> do
> >> so and keep looking. Perhaps that's why you got this saw at such a
> 'great'
> >> price?
> >>
> >> Best of luck,
> >>
> >> Daniel
> >>
> >> On 9/6/2015 10:49 AM, David Speck wrote:
> >> > Tom,
> >> > One thought is to check your alignment standard, and make sure it is
> >> > correctly reporting an error.
> >> >
> >> > Bosch is a relatively reputable name in the equipment business. but,
> >> > it is still possible that you got a lemon, though. If you can't get
> >> > it to align, I'd take it back to the store and exchange it for a
> >> > different example.
> >> >
> >> > Dave
> >> >
> >> > On 9/3/2015 1:32 AM, Matthew Sweeney wrote:
> >> >> I'm building upto 14" diameter VDG for free (for any educational
> >> >> institution or retail not for sale demo only, or otherwise
> >> >> convincable persons of insanity) + mayetials/shipping but have hit a
> >> snag:
> >> >>
> >> >> I aquired a new job site table saw Bosch 4100 something with mount
> >> >> its great for price but I'm having problems with miter alighment. Out
> >> >> of box the blade was of 1/8 inch front to back which is simply
> >> unacceptable.
> >> >> I've
> >> >> followed the Instructions to align this but when I retighten the
> >> >> bolts it reverts to its old cappy 1/8 inch Out of alignment.
> >> >>
> >> >> So my question is, should I give up return the product and double up
> >> >> for a proper cabinet saw, or persist and widen those factory slots to
> >> >> get a perfect measure
> >> >>
> >> >> We are taking $600 for a fine portable jobsite saw vs $1500+ for a
> >> >> proper cabinet saw. I need at the very least 1/32 inch ignment so ...
> >> >> Any experts have an opinion?
> >> >
> >> > _______________________________________________
> >> > Tesla mailing list
> >> > Tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
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> >> > .
> >> >
> >>
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